For Automan21k and his vintage ammo...

MineMagnet506

Shared on Tue, 09/22/2009 - 00:45

****The following article is for informational and entertainment purposes ONLY.  Handling of live ammunition can be hazardous to your health and the author accepts no resposibility for any loss of life, limb or eyesight, or any other serious injury resulting from techniques listed in this article****

 

Get yourself a lee loader kit ( www.leeprecision.com the kit looks like a die with a powder scoop and a few other goodies.  I'm assuming this is 9mm Luger aka 9mm Parabellum aka 9x19 NATO, this rounds been around forever and the means to load your own can be a fun and relaxing hobby) and a kinetic bullet puller.  These items can be found at  Midway (I think that's where I got my loaders for 7.62x54R and .45ACP, the puller I bought locally) or Midsouth Shooters (they're local for me, I call in my order in the morning and pick it up on site in the afternoon).  Set the round in the decapping chamber, place the die over it, inert the seating ram and set it flush.  Set the die so that the ram is about a half turn out, reason being is that there is usually a sealing agent and/or crimp in milsurp ammo (they do this to improve the reliablility of the ammo, to keep the bullet from unseating or falling out during combat manuvers, as well as, to provide consistant firing results) giving this setup a gentle tap until it's flush will break the seal allowing you to unseat the bullet.  Now place the cartridge in the appropriate collet (at least that's how my puller works) place it in the kinetic bullet puller, close it and pound away according to the instructions.  The bullet should unseat and the powder will come right out.  Neutralize the powder with something like motor oil, DO NOT under any circumstances reuse it.  Now for a note on primers (brass actually), there are 2 kinds: Boxer and Berdan.  The difference: Berdan primed brass has 2 flash holes, Boxer has one.  This is important because Boxer is the modern standard and the Lee Loader kit is set up for depriming Boxer primed brass.  Depriming Berdan primed brass can be a cocksucker and an expensive one at that.  This doesn't mean it can't be neutralized and removed, just that it's a more involved process and you can't reload it unless you can find Berdan primers (good luck with that).  Easiest way to neutralize the primer is to carefully insert the powder and bullet free primed brass into the breech of the appropriate weapon, point it in a safe direction and discharge the weapon.  At this point if it's Boxer primed (doubt it) follow the lee loader kits depriming instructions.  If it's Berdan primed (most likely) you'll need to drill the primer out with a twist drill.  The primer can also be neutralized by filling the brass with something like WD40 and letting it sit overnight (the solvent and oil will contaminate the active compound and usually render it inert).  Unless your jewelry project requires use of the primer cup or flash hole, leaving a Berdan primer seated, but inert (fired preferably) would be your best bet.  YouTube has plenty of good videos on using the Loader Kit to supplement the directions that come with it.  Mind, I've described it's use for off label purposes, note disclaimer above.  Once the powder has been removed and primer neutralized the bullet can be reseated and crimped according to the instructions.  If you need to see me do this myself, let me know, I've got beaucoup Czech Milsurp 7.62x54R and I can try and do a video disassembling one.  Remeber: STUPID HURTS, take all safety precautions when handling live ammo.

Comments

Automan21k's picture
Submitted by Automan21k on Tue, 09/22/2009 - 06:45
Thanks, I've been looking at the Lee loaders for a few days, they arew so tempting, but so expensive. I had been looking for some directions on safely disassembling a few rounds, but most info I found started with, "grab a pair of pliars and a screwdriver"
MineMagnet506's picture
Submitted by MineMagnet506 on Tue, 09/22/2009 - 07:17
Both of mine were about $20 each. I think the newer ones are $35 direct from Lee and all Lee products come with something like a 2 year no questions asked warranty. MS could learn something from Lee. Search 'using lee loader classic' on youtube to see if it's something you want to mess with, but that would be the cheapest safest way to go. Also recommend the book 'Modern Reloading 2nd Ed.' by Richard Lee.
Automan21k's picture
Submitted by Automan21k on Tue, 09/22/2009 - 09:12
one thing that does bug me, there are about 50 rounds that appear to have been damaged, either over compressed, and a few that have firing pins that are cracked or broken...I guess I'll just burry the bad ones.
MineMagnet506's picture
Submitted by MineMagnet506 on Tue, 09/22/2009 - 09:17
Firing pins? Or do you mean primers? Bury them in a sealed container containing ATF and sand. The ATF will eventually creep inside the case and neutralize the powder.
Automan21k's picture
Submitted by Automan21k on Tue, 09/22/2009 - 10:32
yeah, primers, not sure what I was thinking. You know, for all the shooting I've done over my life, I've never had a missfire to deal with....thanks.
MineMagnet506's picture
Submitted by MineMagnet506 on Wed, 09/23/2009 - 20:00
You haven't missed out on much. Fortunately the Stoner Curse (for those trolling this who think this has something to with drugs google 'Eugene Stoner' and 'M4/M16 reliability issues') never struck me in combat. 99% of the misfires I've had happened with cheap bulk pack .22lr being fired out of a semi auto that needed to have itself and it's magazines cleaned.

Join our Universe

Connect with 2o2p