After reading your post Steve I hooked up my wheel and shifter (same as yours) with a adapter board not the basherboard but one that I got from UK . i had no problems , I do run it in sequential mode . I will try to run it in "H" pattern and see what happens. Do you have the Fanatec shifters ? If you do try them and see if you still have the same issues.
After reading your post Steve I hooked up my wheel and shifter (same as yours) with a adapter board not the basherboard but one that I got from UK . i had no problems , I do run it in sequential mode . I will try to run it in "H" pattern and see what happens. Do you have the Fanatec shifters ? If you do try them and see if you still have the same issues.
I don't have the fanatec shifter anymore. I done a few races and it' seems fine but it's my sons birthday so I won't get on till later to see if all is still ok. The problem seems to be after I power down everything and then restart it stops working it's made it past one shut down and still worked so hopefully it will still work later
I'm thinking about picking up a PS3 and GT6 and joining you guys - just not fun limping around the track in FM5 with a controller.
If the only thing I plan to play is GT6, I assume the 12GB version will do just fine? It looks like $199 is the going price for that console.
Skiwi and Brnt, I'll be talking to you about your Fanatec GT2 wheel settings when my game arrives.
You will need at least a 40GB (larger if its in the budget) as GT6 takes up to 30gb alone.
The game is on sale at Amazon and Gamestop for 39.99 and I believe it has the Anniversary edition included (good thru 12/29/13). Also you can find a decent price on a refurbished ps3 at Gamestop also
I'm thinking about picking up a PS3 and GT6 and joining you guys - just not fun limping around the track in FM5 with a controller.
If the only thing I plan to play is GT6, I assume the 12GB version will do just fine? It looks like $199 is the going price for that console.
Skiwi and Brnt, I'll be talking to you about your Fanatec GT2 wheel settings when my game arrives.
You will need at least a 40GB (larger if its in the budget) as GT6 takes up to 30gb alone.
The game is on sale at Amazon and Gamestop for 39.99 and I believe it has the Anniversary edition included (good thru 12/29/13). Also you can find a decent price on a refurbished ps3 at Gamestop also
Grim is correct, the game alone is 30GB and PD is saying there will be lots of DLC and frequent updates. Definitely need the larger HD. The plus side is that you will really enjoy this Game. Look forward to seeing you on track real soon.
I'm thinking about picking up a PS3 and GT6 and joining you guys - just not fun limping around the track in FM5 with a controller.
If the only thing I plan to play is GT6, I assume the 12GB version will do just fine? It looks like $199 is the going price for that console.
Skiwi and Brnt, I'll be talking to you about your Fanatec GT2 wheel settings when my game arrives.
ahrd
You can buy a used PS3 with minimum hard drive space and then buy a seperate hard drive 120 gb for about 30 to 40 bucks install it and your done. Very simple to install . You tube it ! I found this harddrive that will work with a PS3.
@ciletti - don't think 12GB is enough space;it's kinda like the 4GB Xbox 360 - sorta works but lots of stuff has restrictionx. Check for bundles from the chains, Gamestop, Best Buy. Frys, Walmart, Target etc and then sell the bundled game on Craigslist if you don't want it.
@ciletti - don't think 12GB is enough space;it's kinda like the 4GB Xbox 360 - sorta works but lots of stuff has restrictionx. Check for bundles from the chains, Gamestop, Best Buy. Frys, Walmart, Target etc and then sell the bundled game on Craigslist if you don't want it.
Or you could get the 12gb and upgrade the HDD 60gb should be good if your only running gt6. Prob cheap for a 60gb 2.5" HDD now I would think
Thanks for the advice guys. I just picked up the 250GB console and my GT6 order from Amazon is supposed to be here Monday. I'll be joining you once I get through the preliminaries to qualify for multiplayer.
Thanks for the advice guys. I just picked up the 250GB console and my GT6 order from Amazon is supposed to be here Monday. I'll be joining you once I get through the preliminaries to qualify for multiplayer.
Thanks for the advice guys. I just picked up the 250GB console and my GT6 order from Amazon is supposed to be here Monday. I'll be joining you once I get through the preliminaries to qualify for multiplayer.
If you want to try out Playstation Plus let me know, I have a 7 day trial period code I don't need.
Finally gave it a go with the CSRE, after about an hour of readjusting, my pace started to return. I also had to turn FF down along with enabling "power assist" (removed "jerkiness" from all I could tell, but it did feel a bit smoother) because after 8 laps I could small something burning in my wheel... But all still works and I have a spare if it blows... That being said, I did not revert my firmware as many have suggested but my old boxed CSRE would likely be better with it's old-old firmware. I do remember it being sublime on GT 5... Way better than Forza even without the vibration motors being used in the wheel rim... And I really doubt PD didn't anything different in GT g with regards to wheel support.
Curbs and other vibration inducing effects are very muted no matter what settings I use... But you get used to it. Leaving the ground or otherwise "skitting" across a bumpy section of track felt fantastic as the wheel really lightens up... Those that revered firmware claim much better feeling with GT 6... And that would make sense as several successive firmware updates were more for Forza than GT/PS3. Fanatec will likely carry over the CSW configurations that are compatible to the CSRE wheel as it sold well and does not work on new consoles... I hope anyway.
What's ironic is that I didn't initially feel that the wheel was giving me much advantage despite having more precise control... Then I went and did the Goodwood with the X14 and nailed it on my second attempt... Couldn't even get half way down the track with a DS3 after countless attempts... So yeah, the magic is definitely there...
I came across this info at gtplanet regarding fanatec settings...I've yet to try it but will give it a go tonite
Hello everyone, after many tries i think i've found the solution to FFB bug on my Fanatec GT2(Fanatec GT2+Clusport Pedals). Since Fanatec wheels are recognized as G25/G27 all tuning settings on the wheel that re-process the game FFB data or input sent from the wheel have to be set to OFF.
SEN: OFF DAM:OFF SPR:OFF DEA: OFF LIN: OFF DRI: OFF
FFB, SHOCK, ABS(rim rumblers activate when you brake corresponding to this value) can be set as you like. After i set the wheel this way i can finally feel the true game feedback, from rumblestrips, curbs to weight shifts of the cars and tyres grip. Give it a try, this could change radically the way you "feel" the game!
P.s. i'm italian sorry for my (probably) bad english
I also read some where that you can apply Logitech drivers to your fanatec wheels some how and that they seem to work a lot better on consoles than the fanatec drivers but iam unsure how to apply it. I'll give these settings a go when I get home and compare....if there's no major difference I might do some searching on the Logitech driver. I use to have a g27 and quit enjoyed it minus the noise compared to the gt3, that wheel feels like a heavy brick in every game. Wish I had kept the g27 I came across a YouTube video where a guy took the belt and motor and installed it to a g27 and claimed it was superb
regarding the the spring setting the guys over isr did a review ages ago using a gt3 rs on gt5 and said of using the spring use 010 dead zone on wheel to remove the springy feel as original that's what I was doing and loosened up the centre feel which made catching slides a bit easier than the normal atuomatic tank slapper
Tried them settings out. Didn't seem like a whole lotta difference from my settings. You guys want to feel the rumble strip feedback in your wheel? Try just running on them with one side of the vehicle going 10 mph and see what you get with those settings.
Came across some interesting finds using the settings above......zero FFb or resistance ingame BUT if I turn the on wheel FFb & sho to 100 while ingame it will activate the engine vibration on my wheel which I never had before and only seems to work if I enter the game with the wheel settings off than turn them on?
Also found that at lower speeds the bumps , curbs and road feedback are much stronger than at higher speeds and carts depending on the track
So iam not sure if this confirms the fanatec FFb bug in gt6 or if my wheel has issues ?
Atm I've settled with these settings
ingame FFb 1-2
simulation
power steering assist off
on wheel settings
degrees off
ffb 100
sho 100
abs 100 but I don't use ingame
drift 01
deadzone 0 or 10 depending on car seems to eliminate the strong entering spring effect
spring 0
damper 0
overal the FFb strength is a bit light but gives me the best detail of what the cars doing, setting the ingame FFb any higher than 3 seems to make the wheel feel heavy and springy. I added the on wheel 10 dead zone which isr advised to eliminate the centre springy effect, with it set to zero I found it difficult to keep the car stable when trying to save a slide, to me when the wheel returned to centre from a slide or corner exit the car would wobble left to right and could be seen on hands ingame which sometimes would lead to an controllable tank slapper. With the 10 dead zone the centre wobble is elongated and a lot smother which allows me to hold and save slides a lot easier
Came across some interesting finds using the settings above......zero FFb or resistance ingame BUT if I turn the on wheel FFb & sho to 100 while ingame it will activate the engine vibration on my wheel which I never had before and only seems to work if I enter the game with the wheel settings off than turn them on?
Also found that at lower speeds the bumps , curbs and road feedback are much stronger than at higher speeds and carts depending on the track
So iam not sure if this confirms the fanatec FFb bug in gt6 or if my wheel has issues ?
Atm I've settled with these settings
ingame FFb 1-2
simulation
power steering assist off
on wheel settings
degrees off
ffb 100
sho 100
abs 100 but I don't use ingame
drift 01
deadzone 0 or 10 depending on car seems to eliminate the strong entering spring effect
spring 0
damper 0
overal the FFb strength is a bit light but gives me the best detail of what the cars doing, setting the ingame FFb any higher than 3 seems to make the wheel feel heavy and springy. I added the on wheel 10 dead zone which isr advised to eliminate the centre springy effect, with it set to zero I found it difficult to keep the car stable when trying to save a slide, to me when the wheel returned to centre from a slide or corner exit the car would wobble left to right and could be seen on hands ingame which sometimes would lead to an controllable tank slapper. With the 10 dead zone the centre wobble is elongated and a lot smother which allows me to hold and save slides a lot easier
I tried the above settings (or as close as I could with my csr wheel) and with the in game FFB set to 1 or even 3, the weel had no feel.
Right, which is exactly what setting it at 1, 2, or 3 is intended to do. I run my in-game FFB at 8 out of 10. That is pretty heavy with most cars and so it may not work for some of you, but I do feel every sensation there is to feel, the effects are just stronger and I do not think there is any clipping.
Also, in GT6, there is no need to run dead zone at 10. The issue that caused us Fanatec users to need to do that in GT5 has been fixed in GT6.
The best advice I can give Fanatec wheel users to get good FFB and physics is to turn off all assists. That really seems to make the wheel as lively as possible.
ive tried higher and it's just a big heavy spring and can't feel anything? Iam starting to think it's the wheel. Every time I sit at my rig and look at I just wanna smash the shit out of it it's caused me so many ingame wtf and cost me races that I can't keep count anymore and usually happens with higher FFb. Every PC game when I run a clipping tool ingame usually says iam clipping till I lower the effects to about 50% of what most are running.
After reading your post Steve I hooked up my wheel and shifter (same as yours) with a adapter board not the basherboard but one that I got from UK . i had no problems , I do run it in sequential mode . I will try to run it in "H" pattern and see what happens. Do you have the Fanatec shifters ? If you do try them and see if you still have the same issues.
I don't have the fanatec shifter anymore. I done a few races and it' seems fine but it's my sons birthday so I won't get on till later to see if all is still ok. The problem seems to be after I power down everything and then restart it stops working it's made it past one shut down and still worked so hopefully it will still work later
I'm thinking about picking up a PS3 and GT6 and joining you guys - just not fun limping around the track in FM5 with a controller.
If the only thing I plan to play is GT6, I assume the 12GB version will do just fine? It looks like $199 is the going price for that console.
Skiwi and Brnt, I'll be talking to you about your Fanatec GT2 wheel settings when my game arrives.
You will need at least a 40GB (larger if its in the budget) as GT6 takes up to 30gb alone.
The game is on sale at Amazon and Gamestop for 39.99 and I believe it has the Anniversary edition included (good thru 12/29/13). Also you can find a decent price on a refurbished ps3 at Gamestop also
http://www.gamestop.com/browse/consoles/playstation-3?nav=16k-consoles,28-xu0,131d9-50-ffff2412-8d
Grim is correct, the game alone is 30GB and PD is saying there will be lots of DLC and frequent updates. Definitely need the larger HD. The plus side is that you will really enjoy this Game. Look forward to seeing you on track real soon.
You can buy a used PS3 with minimum hard drive space and then buy a seperate hard drive 120 gb for about 30 to 40 bucks install it and your done. Very simple to install . You tube it ! I found this harddrive that will work with a PS3.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=160389&CatId=2676
CD....Send over a Friend Request when you get here...Getting ready to hit some races after the 1rst of January!!!
@ciletti - don't think 12GB is enough space;it's kinda like the 4GB Xbox 360 - sorta works but lots of stuff has restrictionx. Check for bundles from the chains, Gamestop, Best Buy. Frys, Walmart, Target etc and then sell the bundled game on Craigslist if you don't want it.
Or you could get the 12gb and upgrade the HDD 60gb should be good if your only running gt6. Prob cheap for a 60gb 2.5" HDD now I would think
Thanks for the advice guys. I just picked up the 250GB console and my GT6 order from Amazon is supposed to be here Monday. I'll be joining you once I get through the preliminaries to qualify for multiplayer.
Excellent. I just posted some tips to help maximise your credit earning potential - http://www.2old2play.com/forum/divisions/2old4forza/sub-forum-gran-turismo-information-and-discussion-area/credit-making-tips
See you on the track
If you want to try out Playstation Plus let me know, I have a 7 day trial period code I don't need.
Ciletti, send me an FR as well. PSN ID=SnappyDee
Same here send FR my GT: InkaBodpaiN
Finally gave it a go with the CSRE, after about an hour of readjusting, my pace started to return. I also had to turn FF down along with enabling "power assist" (removed "jerkiness" from all I could tell, but it did feel a bit smoother) because after 8 laps I could small something burning in my wheel... But all still works and I have a spare if it blows... That being said, I did not revert my firmware as many have suggested but my old boxed CSRE would likely be better with it's old-old firmware. I do remember it being sublime on GT 5... Way better than Forza even without the vibration motors being used in the wheel rim... And I really doubt PD didn't anything different in GT g with regards to wheel support.
Curbs and other vibration inducing effects are very muted no matter what settings I use... But you get used to it. Leaving the ground or otherwise "skitting" across a bumpy section of track felt fantastic as the wheel really lightens up... Those that revered firmware claim much better feeling with GT 6... And that would make sense as several successive firmware updates were more for Forza than GT/PS3. Fanatec will likely carry over the CSW configurations that are compatible to the CSRE wheel as it sold well and does not work on new consoles... I hope anyway.
What's ironic is that I didn't initially feel that the wheel was giving me much advantage despite having more precise control... Then I went and did the Goodwood with the X14 and nailed it on my second attempt... Couldn't even get half way down the track with a DS3 after countless attempts... So yeah, the magic is definitely there...
I came across this info at gtplanet regarding fanatec settings...I've yet to try it but will give it a go tonite
Hello everyone, after many tries i think i've found the solution to FFB bug on my Fanatec GT2(Fanatec GT2+Clusport Pedals). Since Fanatec wheels are recognized as G25/G27 all tuning settings on the wheel that re-process the game FFB data or input sent from the wheel have to be set to OFF.
SEN: OFF
DAM:OFF
SPR:OFF
DEA: OFF
LIN: OFF
DRI: OFF
FFB, SHOCK, ABS(rim rumblers activate when you brake corresponding to this value) can be set as you like. After i set the wheel this way i can finally feel the true game feedback, from rumblestrips, curbs to weight shifts of the cars and tyres grip. Give it a try, this could change radically the way you "feel" the game!
P.s. i'm italian sorry for my (probably) bad english
That would make sense... FF to anything less than 100 on the wheel overrides the games FF too.
though I do believe my wheel is pretty much everything off besides spr -1 as my wheel started smelling...
I'm looking forward to your findings...
No lol I copied and pasted that from the thread
4th generation Canadian of Irish, German decent
Lol I was gonna throw out all kinds of Italian jokes etc.! Better off not doing that tho. Interesting find I will definetly have to try this out.
I also read some where that you can apply Logitech drivers to your fanatec wheels some how and that they seem to work a lot better on consoles than the fanatec drivers but iam unsure how to apply it. I'll give these settings a go when I get home and compare....if there's no major difference I might do some searching on the Logitech driver. I use to have a g27 and quit enjoyed it minus the noise compared to the gt3, that wheel feels like a heavy brick in every game. Wish I had kept the g27 I came across a YouTube video where a guy took the belt and motor and installed it to a g27 and claimed it was superb
regarding the the spring setting the guys over isr did a review ages ago using a gt3 rs on gt5 and said of using the spring use 010 dead zone on wheel to remove the springy feel as original that's what I was doing and loosened up the centre feel which made catching slides a bit easier than the normal atuomatic tank slapper
Tried them settings out. Didn't seem like a whole lotta difference from my settings. You guys want to feel the rumble strip feedback in your wheel? Try just running on them with one side of the vehicle going 10 mph and see what you get with those settings.
Came across some interesting finds using the settings above......zero FFb or resistance ingame BUT if I turn the on wheel FFb & sho to 100 while ingame it will activate the engine vibration on my wheel which I never had before and only seems to work if I enter the game with the wheel settings off than turn them on?
Also found that at lower speeds the bumps , curbs and road feedback are much stronger than at higher speeds and carts depending on the track
So iam not sure if this confirms the fanatec FFb bug in gt6 or if my wheel has issues ?
Atm I've settled with these settings
ingame FFb 1-2
simulation
power steering assist off
on wheel settings
degrees off
ffb 100
sho 100
abs 100 but I don't use ingame
drift 01
deadzone 0 or 10 depending on car seems to eliminate the strong entering spring effect
spring 0
damper 0
overal the FFb strength is a bit light but gives me the best detail of what the cars doing, setting the ingame FFb any higher than 3 seems to make the wheel feel heavy and springy. I added the on wheel 10 dead zone which isr advised to eliminate the centre springy effect, with it set to zero I found it difficult to keep the car stable when trying to save a slide, to me when the wheel returned to centre from a slide or corner exit the car would wobble left to right and could be seen on hands ingame which sometimes would lead to an controllable tank slapper. With the 10 dead zone the centre wobble is elongated and a lot smother which allows me to hold and save slides a lot easier
Going to give this a try tonight!!
Where is Ciletti? How you making out, CD?
I put some time in over the holidays and completed the licenses up thru A, but I haven't
gotten in any multiplayer races yet. It was a busy week at work so not much time to get
anything done this week.
I need to try some of these settings as I've experienced some epic
spinouts when I pushed it past the limit. Like Mapo said, it doesn't seem to recover
when you countersteer. I also recall Grimm saying you have to be smoother with the steering
inputs, which I also agree with. I went back to FM 4 for a fee rivals last night, and really appreciated
how well the wheel felt there and seemed in better able to push some rivals. (but FM4s off topic for this thread :-) )
I tried the above settings (or as close as I could with my csr wheel) and with the in game FFB set to 1 or even 3, the weel had no feel.
Right, which is exactly what setting it at 1, 2, or 3 is intended to do. I run my in-game FFB at 8 out of 10. That is pretty heavy with most cars and so it may not work for some of you, but I do feel every sensation there is to feel, the effects are just stronger and I do not think there is any clipping.
Also, in GT6, there is no need to run dead zone at 10. The issue that caused us Fanatec users to need to do that in GT5 has been fixed in GT6.
The best advice I can give Fanatec wheel users to get good FFB and physics is to turn off all assists. That really seems to make the wheel as lively as possible.
The mystery of fanatec lol
ive tried higher and it's just a big heavy spring and can't feel anything? Iam starting to think it's the wheel. Every time I sit at my rig and look at I just wanna smash the shit out of it it's caused me so many ingame wtf and cost me races that I can't keep count anymore and usually happens with higher FFb. Every PC game when I run a clipping tool ingame usually says iam clipping till I lower the effects to about 50% of what most are running.
i think a t500 is in the near future :)