Fanatec PWTS help please.
#1
Sat, 01/12/2013 - 17:21
Fanatec PWTS help please.
As some of you may have noticed my wheel sometimes looses conection to the XBOX,or so I thought. Turns out that the wheel freezes not just disconects.
So now I've got two questions:
1. How do I check which firmware my wheel runs? I guess it's 681 as I updated it once for the deadzone fix in GT5.
2. What is the latest firmware for the PWTS?
Hopefully a newer firmware will fix my problem.
Definitely recommend the updated V756 firmware for the GT2/PWTS from Fanatec. After updating make sure you rebind the wheel to the Xbox and recalibrate centre position and the stick shifter, if you use that. You will loose all your current firmware settings so make a note of them beforehand. Also note the new SEN setting when in the OFF position is equivalent to 900 - it used to be 270 in the V681 firmware..
Thanks guys, wheel updated! I was actually running v669. I'll see how the wheel holds up in tonights mx-5 race.
My GT wheel has the same issue, with latest firmware. I believe it locks when it loses connection. The new firmware has the autoclutch, make sure to turn this off when in menus or your buttons will be wonky. The wheel will only calibrate in PC mode after update. You will need to be USB connected and in PC mode to calibrate shifter and center.
Hope it cures the problem Zeratul!
I've just had to order a new Load Cell for my CSP's - I'm really hoping it's in stock and they get it out on Monday!!
Any good Zeratul?
Have you tried laying 756 down on itself a couple of times rather than over an earlier version like 681. Just did that to mine over the weekend and it has settled down quite nicely; set SENS 900, SPR 1 and DPR -1 and it feels good around the centre position.
Honestly don't know why that should make a difference but folks on Thomas' blog had suggested that so I tried as well.
Hi Mapo,
Did you upgrade the firmware? Wondering if its worth upgrading to 756.
Thanks
Also to Skiwi and Zeratul, are you having any issue's with 756 firmware?
Thanks
No issues now with the V756 firmware - I did have a random disconnect issue initally but after reflashing a couple of times and doing a full wheel rebind to the Xobx everything has been solid since. I've played round more with the spring and damper settings to try and get rid of the centre notch; currently using SPR -3 and DPR -3. I found the default OFF settings for those two wierd. Also set DRI to 1 since the default of 2 also seemed to lighten the wheel feel too much.
As MAPO says, keep both 681 and 756 around and switch between the 2 until you find a set of settings that work for you. I do find the ACL nice when using the faster cars (S and up) which typically now come with full sequential transmissions/paddle shifters - as stated, just need to remember to turn it off when using menus; also make sure you are in Wheel Layout 1 in Forza 4.
I did give FW756 another try on my GT2 last Thursday after fitting a new wheel rim supplied by Fanatec under warranty, but I just don't like the way it feels!
I'm not sure if it's because I'm so used to FW681, but FW756 just feels a little sloppy around the centre point on the xBox and I can't get used to it. I've tried to love it, the force feedback strength feels better on xBox and the ACL is good for cars that use it but I've gone back to FW681 again.
The wheel seemed fine for the 45 min race we did. After the update it did freeze once but that was before I rebound the wheel to the xbox, don't forget this step guys!
Thanks for the info.
No problem, flashing the wheel is a doddle and Fanatec have the 681 and 756 FW on the site so my advice would be to try it, and if you prefer 681 just flash back to it!
Lots of people love 756, and I can see why as the wheel seems to give more feedback of what the tyres are doing (in FM4 anyway) but it's just not for me..gif)
theres allso driver 144 if you havent done that as well.....I just got the gt3 rs package for xmas....the stock 681 firmware was decent, the newest one 756 i recently updated too seems more lively vibration wise, wheel feels lighter it seems to have a bigger deadzone that is quit noticeable in corners.....only problem ive come across so far was during a testing with pcars the ffb strength was really firm and i believe i overpowered the wheel cause i lost all ffb and had to reset it to get back to normal but thats just 1 incident.....i read on there forum that the last beta firmware... i believe 751? seems to be the happy medium.....iam a noob theresa few fanatec experts at gbr that iam sure can help......f1fan and seahawks
Interesting thread. I've been running 681 for quite a while and have never had any disconnects or the wheel locking up. If I recall correctly I tried out some interium versions (714?) quite a while (at least 2 years) back and went right back to 681, but can't recall why. Just wanted to say that 681 has been very stable for me. I tend to be of the if it isn't broke don't fix it mentality.
However I do see one issue that comes and goes. It could be my driving (drove a stick daily for better than 30 years) but I'm leaning towards the wheel being a significant contributor. This occurs when running manual with clutch (paddle shifters and CSP V1) in full sim damage.
When shifting, just changing gears will cause them to grind and toast the gear box in a lap or two. I really noticed this again in the just completed MX-5 series, so it got me wondering thinking if it could be componet related. For instance if I run race clutch / tranny I see this problem infrequently, but when running non-race componets it seems to occur quite often. The game seems to be keyed to shift times based on the installed parts. Perhaps the firmware it tuned towards the faster shift times more properly handled by race compents? Or corrupted default values when it powers on, as some days it works flawlessly.
It does not always do this as there are times when it works as expected. I've had the MX-5 work great one day, the next day not so much. I had considered trying the 756 flavor, but was a bit hesitant since this is the ONLY issue I have with the wheel.
To quote DangeRuss -- "Go Hawks!"
Thanks for the info. The 681 has been solid, but when time allows I will try 756.
g35gomba - take a look at your in-game deadzone settings for the clutch pedal. I changed mine to be Inside 1%, Outside 21%; means less movement of the Fanatec pedal is needed to complete a clutch movement with your foot.
This is where 756 can help if you want it to by enabling ACL (auto-clutch) for use with the paddle shifters. I now turn ACL off when using the H-Shifter and foot/pedal clutch and enable ACL when I want to use the paddle shifters.
Ultimately it all comes down to personal preference, and even with the firmware upgrade I still own my position at the back of the pack
Thanks skiwinv, I'll give those settings a peek. After reading this thread I'll see about gathering the bits to give 756 a try. If the in game settings take care of my issues, I won't likely be in a hurry. I' ve read many good things about ACL and wouldn't mind giving a whirl at some point.
And yes I do enjoy my time at the back of the pack, I am slowly picking up better lines following some of you faster folks each race...
@SkiwiNV I adjusted the in game dead zone and that did the trick for me, THANKS!