Here is one for the console guys. Very basic but still very good. You guys are obviously not beginners so don't be insulted by the "this will be new to you" stuff.
Just a quick note on the TX wheel on PC. To get the FFB working properly you muts calibrate the wheel BUT when the game asks you to rotate the wheel 90 degs rotate it until the readout reads 900 then press next while HOLDING the wheel against the FFB, now press save and release the wheel.
Also it seems you have to increace the master scale in every car on every track in the car settings, as the stock setting of 26 is way to low. I set mine to 100.
Pc.....here's a link to jackspade ffb
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Twe...
tweaker files. There's 2 files I prefer the soplateral file as it gives more detail to the rear. Just drop 1 of the 2 files in my documents/project cars folder this file will automatically setup each individual cars ffb upon launch, I tested a few last night and they felt quit good compared to the default.
I use a thrustmaster tx in the thrustmaster profile I have it set up like this
75/100/100/0/0 nominamal clipping only on high curbs during turns
Sms has also released a public acknowledgement regarding many xbox 1 issues and has an update coming to fix the issues :)
Pc.....here's a link to jackspade ffb http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Twe... tweaker files. There's 2 files I prefer the soplateral file as it gives more detail to the rear. Just drop 1 of the 2 files in my documents/project cars folder this file will automatically setup each individual cars ffb upon launch, I tested a few last night and they felt quit good compared to the default. I use a thrustmaster tx in the thrustmaster profile I have it set up like this 75/100/100/0/0 nominamal clipping only on high curbs during turns Sms has also released a public acknowledgement regarding many xbox 1 issues and has an update coming to fix the issues :)
Krupt , can you please tell me how exactly you install into project cars file , I'm not very savy with this install . Thanks ! One more thing with triple screens can the telemtry read out for tire wear .ffb etc be set to center monitor instead of stretched out along all 3 monitors.
Its a bitch owning a wheel that no one is posting good ffb settings for. I've search all the PCARS forums and there is one post. Someone looking for a good setup. I've almost got it to feel ok. but I'm sure i'm missing something. Its hard to counter steer. Almost temped to run it with the t500. So Snappy or Dave if you run across a good setup for the Ecci 7000 wheel .post it here. Thanks.
Your in the league of the rich and few high end wheel owners....I vaguely remember a thread I'll check....in one of the pcars threads here a posted wheel tips and it mentioned something on servo wheels that might help....the counter steer issue could be due to its extremely high power and might need to lower the strength.....but again I know nothing with those wheels
@ Dave. I must be the few, because i'm not the rich. lol. I think I remember seeing the post. but cant remember which forum. If you see it again post the link. greg
I got to say. Since I downloaded the Jack Spade FFB tweak file the wheel has came to life. I can feel road bumps/kerbs/and rear traction loss. The game also feels great with simcommander4 for my motion seat. Really starting to enjoy this game.
I got to say. Since I downloaded the Jack Spade FFB tweak file the wheel has came to life. I can feel road bumps/kerbs/and rear traction loss. The game also feels great with simcommander4 for my motion seat. Really starting to enjoy this game.
Would you be so kind to post your wheel settings. Thanks!
@ ink his won't work with your wheel he runs a a high end servo wheel if Iam correct and they use a very different setup as well as a third party software if Iam correct.
I've been fiddling with different profiles and I keep coming back to a slightly tweaked default setting with added sop forces
thrustmaster profile
75/100/100/0/0
Ingame
ffb 100 all smoothing off deadzone removal .10 fx/fz/fy 80 mz 116 sop 26 lateral sop 80 differential sop 80.
I don't care for the constant canned road feedback so many are seeking as it doesn't give you any important info other than keep you entertained on a straight :) I can still feel bumps and is also dependant on track and tire compound.....my only focus is on grip with too many effects going on it will drown out the vital info. Best $120 I ever spent which added more immersion than triple screens was a buttkicker which allows me to feel all the bumps/shift changes etc where there supposed to be felt instead of trying to add canned effects and simulate them through the wheel :)
simply cranking the ffb to full like most do actual just causes the wheel to clip which means the wheel just sends the max signal it can output which cancels out all other details till the signal returns back within its capable range.....the result a heavy spring like wheel with no effects coming through it which will result in a floaty disconnect and lack of feel during turns.
think of a wheel as a stereo system....just because a stereo has a max volume of x doesn't mean it will sound remotely good at even 70%....I would suggest ingame ffb at 100 % always than lowering all other fx/fz/fy settings to 50% as a start, for more feel in the rear make sure your sop settings match the fx/fz/fy settings to keep it symmetrical increase it each till you start to loose details. Mz is grip depending on car I have it set to between 100-116
@ ink his won't work with your wheel he runs a a high end servo wheel if Iam correct and they use a very different setup as well as a third party software if Iam correct.
I've been fiddling with different profiles and I keep coming back to a slightly tweaked default setting with added sop forces
thrustmaster profile
75/100/100/0/0
Ingame
ffb 100 all smoothing off deadzone removal .10 fx/fz/fy 80 mz 116 sop 26 lateral sop 80 differential sop 80.
I don't care for the constant canned road feedback so many are seeking as it doesn't give you any important info other than keep you entertained on a straight :) I can still feel bumps and is also dependant on track and tire compound.....my only focus is on grip with too many effects going on it will drown out the vital info. Best $120 I ever spent which added more immersion than triple screens was a buttkicker which allows me to feel all the bumps/shift changes etc where there supposed to be felt instead of trying to add canned effects and simulate them through the wheel :)
simply cranking the ffb to full like most do actual just causes the wheel to clip which means the wheel just sends the max signal it can output which cancels out all other details till the signal returns back within its capable range.....the result a heavy spring like wheel with no effects coming through it which will result in a floaty disconnect and lack of feel during turns.
think of a wheel as a stereo system....just because a stereo has a max volume of x doesn't mean it will sound remotely good at even 70%....I would suggest ingame ffb at 100 % always than lowering all other fx/fz/fy settings to 50% as a start, for more feel in the rear make sure your sop settings match the fx/fz/fy settings to keep it symmetrical increase it each till you start to loose details. Mz is grip depending on car I have it set to between 100-116
"ARRGHH!" My brain just exploded ! LOL! Understood I think . I have simvibe with 4x buttkickers I need to fine tune that with this title I haven't used it yet.
Where is the ingame ffb setting?. I only see tire force and master scale spindle settings.@ ink Since I downloaded the jack spade file I only adjust the steering radio about 3/4 way up. the tire force =100
the master scale at 100 to 120. I set the arm angle almost all the way to the right. and all else set to default. Dave's correct on the wheel. Ecci 7000 ffb wheel.
Atm I don't have enough buttkicker to make simvibe a worth it, tho it is in the plans and 4 more buttkicker
As for my above post those settings work well with fwd cars as they seem to need higher levels.....rwd I've found 50-50% works well with fz/fx/fy and sop settings
Thank you Krupt I will try those settings on my wheel. I have yet another of many questions to come , "just kidding!" not really. Any suggestions regarding chatting online when playing through steam . Seems that our 2old4forza group is growing on steam so it would be nice to maybe plan a race for fun. I also set up my simvibe and I must say good effects coming thru .
Teamspeak is a program for voice chat. Its not connected to any game you just download the client login to the server and you can have voice chat with anyone else connected. There are a couple other options that do the same thing but Teamspeak is the most popular.
I use it when I am online with other groups plaing various games.
There's also a program similar to Teamspeak called mumble.....I believe it's free but not 100% sure.
is the 2old4forza steam group the one I've sent invites too or a different club ? If so can u send me an invite please I'll be on the weekend and would be up for some races :)
There's also a program similar to Teamspeak called mumble.....I believe it's free but not 100% sure. is the 2old4forza steam group the one I've sent invites too or a different club ? If so can u send me an invite please I'll be on the weekend and would be up for some races :)
Ive tested many ffb setup guides but have found bmanic as the most knowledgable and best so far, he just released an update and many different wheel users are reporting its working...i tested them and they are extremely well balanced and feel great with tons of info......if your one of the users that prefers a heavy spring brick which clipps the second any movement is applied please disregard the following info :)
Ive found by taken the cars hes provided and break them down into classes it works well with all similar cars!
UPDATE! I changed Relative Adjust Bleed to 0.3 instead of 0.45 (which could cause some oddities)
UPDATE2!: More and more people with other wheel brands have tried the settings and it's starting to look as if these may work for quite a few wheels. T500 is confirmed as working pretty well, Fanatec GT2/GT3RS v2 also confirmed as working better than defaults and one Fanatec CSW v2 also happy.
Hi guys,
So I finally had some time to play the game and I've spent the whole day experimenting with a new way to squeeze the massive FFB dynamic range into a range that our consumer wheels can tolerate while getting as much information as possible from the FFB (meaning: no hard clipping).
I would love it if you Thrustmaster TX and T300 owners would try these settings. NOTE: You must follow these instructions TO THE LETTER or the experience will be different to mine. Feedback that is provided without following every single point to the letter will be useless and thus ignored.
Why? Because the FFB system in pCars is extremely flexible and thus complex. It is also highly dynamic which means that a single tiny tweak of a crucial parameter (like tire force / master scale multiplier, spindle arm angle or the ratio of Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz) will alter the system. Thus, if you want stronger or weaker forces, use your Thrustmaster Control Panel program to control this! Do NOT change the in-game settings to achieve this!
These are my Thrustmaster Control Panel gain settings:
Overall strength of all forces = 75% Constant = 100% Periodic = 0% Spring = 0% Damper = 0%
Auto-center settings = by the game (recommended)
Step 1)
Set your Thrustmaster Control Panel settings. You can use my settings to start with. These result in fairly heavy forces. A good workout but not impossible to drive with. If you are a masochist, set the strength to 100%. I often drive longer races with the strength set to 60%.
Step 2)
Start Project CARS and reset your wheel then do the wheel calibration again as follows:
a) turn wheel FULLY LEFT AND RIGHT.. all the way! My TX wheel requires me to truly wrestle the wheel to get it 100%, otherwise it stops at 96%.
b) follow the 90 degree rotation to the letter.. this means you set your wheel so that it is physically pointing exactly 90 degrees to either left or right. Do NOT set it so that you get perfectly 900 or 1080 degrees here. Set it so that it is truly pointing 90 degrees to either side. For example, my wheel when set so that it is physically pointing 90 degrees results in a steering rotation of 882 degrees.
c) calibrate your pedals
d) configure your buttons
Step 3)
Make sure your FFB Strength in-game is set to 100/maximum! This is very important! It defaults to 75. Also make sure the FFB damping saturation setting is set to ZERO. It defaults to 25. (you find these options under the CONFIGURATION tab in the controls preferences)
Step 4)
Go into the "calibrate FFB" menu and set the following (parameters not mentioned should be left at default!):
Tire Force = 100
Deadzone Removal Range = 0.03 Deadzone Removal Falloff = 0.02
Relative Adjust Gain = 1.37 (sometimes it shows 137 and leaves the " . " out) Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.30 Relative Adjust Clamp = 1.33 (sometimes it shows 133 and leaves the " . " out)
Individual car setup FFB settings! I've only had time to test 3 cars but from these you can quickly extrapolate and get the general idea. The main idea is to have a Mz heavy setup and to set a good spindle arm angle and then to set a good Master Scale value so that the FFB "pushes" into the Relative Gain and Soft Clipping at proper levels. These usually end up in the 26 to 36 range, depending on how much down force the car produces or how heavy it is. Here are the settings for the 3 cars that tried:
<--- CAR SETUP - FFB TAB - --->
Lykan Hypersport: (all mid engine street super cars) Master Scale = 32
Fx = 68 Fy = 36 Fz = 74 Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2000
Formula B:
(open wheel cars) Master Scale = 30
Fx = 68 Fy = 36 Fz = 74 Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2500
Renault Clio Cup (fwd cars) Master Scale = 34
Fx = 82 Fy = 60 Fz = 68 Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Arm Angle = 700 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
That's it. You are done. Go into the game and enjoy pretty detailed FFB. To appreciate the full range of FFB I highly recommend turning off all driving aids. I'll add more cars to this thread once I have a chance to test some more.
NOTE!: I will NOT be providing FFB .xml files because they do not seem to work as expected. This is a complete system where every individual setting feeds into one another and thus becomes a quite complex thing. The general signal flow is like this (at least it used to be like this right before release):
Tire Force * Master Scale -> Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz -> Spindle Arm Angle -> Relative Gain -> Soft Clipping -> Scoop -> Tighten Center
As I've understood it, Relative Gain and Soft Clipping are non-linear functions and thus quite complex in nature. Even small input variations can cause quite a different feel in the wheel. Because there are two of these functions after one another and they feed an inherently non-linear device (your consumer wheel) you can probably appreciate how quickly things get complicated. You'll easily notice this by simply tweaking the Master Scale of each car or change the Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz relative ratios. Like I said in the beginning of the post, the main point is to squeeze as much "useful" information into the limited dynamic range of our consumer wheels and this means compressing the heck out of it.
You lucky s.o.b's with direct drive wheels can ignore all this and simply set pCars as fully linear and have a ridiculously awesome experience. You may still want to adjust the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings like I have them above but disregard everything else (remove all soft clip and all relative gain and scoop stuff. Heck, I'd even remove tighten center).
God damn foot it's been a while!
I found the settings above worked very well....I can't say anything on wheel spin as I didn't test any powerful enough rwd cars, I can feel very detailed grip levels under braking, lock ups will pull to aside and full lock up slides will give you detail effects up till loss of grip than go light through out the slide till grip is regained. The current base settings are far to high and just cancel each out as too many effects are fighting to be felt
brake vibrations are more of an added canned effect which pcars avoids tho Iam not sure but there may be an effect on cars that have abs built in if set to real. I recall a thread mentioning something about abs rumble being added to the Clubsport pedals so there could be? From what I recall the ffb is based on the feedback directly from the tires and sent through the steering rack...games like ac use a tire model + suspension with the option of canned effects on top.
not sure if your using a wheel or controller, but I read in the patch file that xbox1 controllers will have pulsating triggers enabled for braking
Here is one for the console guys. Very basic but still very good. You guys are obviously not beginners so don't be insulted by the "this will be new to you" stuff.
http://youtu.be/E_PQdCNBlS4
Just a quick note on the TX wheel on PC. To get the FFB working properly you muts calibrate the wheel BUT when the game asks you to rotate the wheel 90 degs rotate it until the readout reads 900 then press next while HOLDING the wheel against the FFB, now press save and release the wheel.
Also it seems you have to increace the master scale in every car on every track in the car settings, as the stock setting of 26 is way to low. I set mine to 100.
Krupt , can you please tell me how exactly you install into project cars file , I'm not very savy with this install . Thanks ! One more thing with triple screens can the telemtry read out for tire wear .ffb etc be set to center monitor instead of stretched out along all 3 monitors.
More Gamepad info:
http://youtu.be/D_A675GL-Kw
Its a bitch owning a wheel that no one is posting good ffb settings for. I've search all the PCARS forums and there is one post. Someone looking for a good setup. I've almost got it to feel ok. but I'm sure i'm missing something. Its hard to counter steer. Almost temped to run it with the t500. So Snappy or Dave if you run across a good setup for the Ecci 7000 wheel .post it here. Thanks.
@ Dave. I must be the few, because i'm not the rich. lol. I think I remember seeing the post. but cant remember which forum. If you see it again post the link. greg
Oh forum gods we pray unto you. Let thy post become sticky with its wealth of knowledge and helpfulness. In your race we pray, V8.
Good info, thanks for the vids and links.
I got to say. Since I downloaded the Jack Spade FFB tweak file the wheel has came to life. I can feel road bumps/kerbs/and rear traction loss. The game also feels great with simcommander4 for my motion seat. Really starting to enjoy this game.
Where is the ingame ffb setting?. I only see tire force and master scale spindle settings.@ ink Since I downloaded the jack spade file I only adjust the steering radio about 3/4 way up. the tire force =100
the master scale at 100 to 120. I set the arm angle almost all the way to the right. and all else set to default. Dave's correct on the wheel. Ecci 7000 ffb wheel.
Never mind on the ffb?. found it
Thank you Krupt I will try those settings on my wheel. I have yet another of many questions to come , "just kidding!" not really. Any suggestions regarding chatting online when playing through steam . Seems that our 2old4forza group is growing on steam so it would be nice to maybe plan a race for fun. I also set up my simvibe and I must say good effects coming thru .
Well I was actually contemplating a TS server for group chat. Not at home right now but going to maybe check some prices later.
What is team speak?
Teamspeak is a program for voice chat. Its not connected to any game you just download the client login to the server and you can have voice chat with anyone else connected. There are a couple other options that do the same thing but Teamspeak is the most popular.
I use it when I am online with other groups plaing various games.
will do . Your steam ID
Ive tested many ffb setup guides but have found bmanic as the most knowledgable and best so far, he just released an update and many different wheel users are reporting its working...i tested them and they are extremely well balanced and feel great with tons of info......if your one of the users that prefers a heavy spring brick which clipps the second any movement is applied please disregard the following info :)
Ive found by taken the cars hes provided and break them down into classes it works well with all similar cars!
UPDATE! I changed Relative Adjust Bleed to 0.3 instead of 0.45 (which could cause some oddities)
UPDATE2!: More and more people with other wheel brands have tried the settings and it's starting to look as if these may work for quite a few wheels. T500 is confirmed as working pretty well, Fanatec GT2/GT3RS v2 also confirmed as working better than defaults and one Fanatec CSW v2 also happy.
Hi guys,
So I finally had some time to play the game and I've spent the whole day experimenting with a new way to squeeze the massive FFB dynamic range into a range that our consumer wheels can tolerate while getting as much information as possible from the FFB (meaning: no hard clipping).
I would love it if you Thrustmaster TX and T300 owners would try these settings. NOTE: You must follow these instructions TO THE LETTER or the experience will be different to mine. Feedback that is provided without following every single point to the letter will be useless and thus ignored.
Why? Because the FFB system in pCars is extremely flexible and thus complex. It is also highly dynamic which means that a single tiny tweak of a crucial parameter (like tire force / master scale multiplier, spindle arm angle or the ratio of Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz) will alter the system. Thus, if you want stronger or weaker forces, use your Thrustmaster Control Panel program to control this! Do NOT change the in-game settings to achieve this!
These are my Thrustmaster Control Panel gain settings:
Overall strength of all forces = 75%
Constant = 100%
Periodic = 0%
Spring = 0%
Damper = 0%
Auto-center settings = by the game (recommended)
Step 1)
Set your Thrustmaster Control Panel settings. You can use my settings to start with. These result in fairly heavy forces. A good workout but not impossible to drive with. If you are a masochist, set the strength to 100%. I often drive longer races with the strength set to 60%.
Step 2)
Start Project CARS and reset your wheel then do the wheel calibration again as follows:
a) turn wheel FULLY LEFT AND RIGHT.. all the way! My TX wheel requires me to truly wrestle the wheel to get it 100%, otherwise it stops at 96%.
b) follow the 90 degree rotation to the letter.. this means you set your wheel so that it is physically pointing exactly 90 degrees to either left or right. Do NOT set it so that you get perfectly 900 or 1080 degrees here. Set it so that it is truly pointing 90 degrees to either side. For example, my wheel when set so that it is physically pointing 90 degrees results in a steering rotation of 882 degrees.
c) calibrate your pedals
d) configure your buttons
Step 3)
Make sure your FFB Strength in-game is set to 100/maximum! This is very important! It defaults to 75. Also make sure the FFB damping saturation setting is set to ZERO. It defaults to 25. (you find these options under the CONFIGURATION tab in the controls preferences)
Step 4)
Go into the "calibrate FFB" menu and set the following (parameters not mentioned should be left at default!):
Tire Force = 100
Deadzone Removal Range = 0.03
Deadzone Removal Falloff = 0.02
Relative Adjust Gain = 1.37 (sometimes it shows 137 and leaves the " . " out)
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.30
Relative Adjust Clamp = 1.33 (sometimes it shows 133 and leaves the " . " out)
Scoop Knee = 0.12
Scoop Reduction = 0.08
Soft Clipping (Half Input) = 0.60
Soft Clipping (Full Output) = 1.79
Step 5)
Individual car setup FFB settings! I've only had time to test 3 cars but from these you can quickly extrapolate and get the general idea. The main idea is to have a Mz heavy setup and to set a good spindle arm angle and then to set a good Master Scale value so that the FFB "pushes" into the Relative Gain and Soft Clipping at proper levels. These usually end up in the 26 to 36 range, depending on how much down force the car produces or how heavy it is. Here are the settings for the 3 cars that tried:
<--- CAR SETUP - FFB TAB - --->
Lykan Hypersport:
(all mid engine street super cars)
Master Scale = 32
Fx = 68
Fy = 36
Fz = 74
Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2200
BMW Z4 GT3:
(front engine rwd gt cars)
Master Scale = 28
Fx = 66
Fy = 44
Fz = 82
Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2000
Formula B:
(open wheel cars)
Master Scale = 30
Fx = 68
Fy = 36
Fz = 74
Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2500
Renault Clio Cup
(fwd cars)
Master Scale = 34
Fx = 82
Fy = 60
Fz = 68
Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Arm Angle = 700
----------------------------------------------------------------------
That's it. You are done. Go into the game and enjoy pretty detailed FFB. To appreciate the full range of FFB I highly recommend turning off all driving aids. I'll add more cars to this thread once I have a chance to test some more.
NOTE!: I will NOT be providing FFB .xml files because they do not seem to work as expected. This is a complete system where every individual setting feeds into one another and thus becomes a quite complex thing. The general signal flow is like this (at least it used to be like this right before release):
Tire Force * Master Scale -> Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz -> Spindle Arm Angle -> Relative Gain -> Soft Clipping -> Scoop -> Tighten Center
As I've understood it, Relative Gain and Soft Clipping are non-linear functions and thus quite complex in nature. Even small input variations can cause quite a different feel in the wheel. Because there are two of these functions after one another and they feed an inherently non-linear device (your consumer wheel) you can probably appreciate how quickly things get complicated. You'll easily notice this by simply tweaking the Master Scale of each car or change the Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz relative ratios. Like I said in the beginning of the post, the main point is to squeeze as much "useful" information into the limited dynamic range of our consumer wheels and this means compressing the heck out of it.
You lucky s.o.b's with direct drive wheels can ignore all this and simply set pCars as fully linear and have a ridiculously awesome experience. You may still want to adjust the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings like I have them above but disregard everything else (remove all soft clip and all relative gain and scoop stuff. Heck, I'd even remove tighten center).
Cheers!
bManic
For me the main thing missing is VIBRATION. Braking lockup, wheel spin, tires scrub in turns. Will fiddling around with the FFB somehow fix this?
Yes, Foot. It will. Is there a particular car you drive most that you want to test some settings on?
will this adversely affect it's performance when playing Forza? I don't want to change the TX everytime I change games.