715 for Fanatec CSR
715 for Fanatec CSR
I got hold of the 715 firmware for the CSR and tried it out today. The install was fiddly but worked okay on my 64bit Win7 machine running in administrator mode.
This is the one that gives you auto clutch and I wanted to give it a go as it is just too easy to damage your clutch mistiming gear changes with the paddles.
First thing I noticed was the FF was very brutal, much stronger and in no way better. also it was hard to control the car in a straight line. Tank slappers were the order of the day. My throttle also stuck open during one race. and the disconnect issue raised its ugly head again during another.
The auto clutch did work and there was no damage to my clutch after several laps, but all the other issues will need to be sorted before it is worth changing up.
So there you are folks, don't be tempted by this early version of 715. I have gone back to my original firmware and will live with the fact that I will be cooking clutches for some time to come.
Thanks for the heads up, I`ll give this one a miss.
I was happy with the last update that fixed the noise of the fans, the rest I can live with for now.
I thought I read that firmware war for thr csr elite.
Yes there is one for each of the wheels. The CSR version is not on general relese yet.
The 715 firmware for the CSR Elite did not have autoclutch and there was a huge deadspot of FFB in the center of steering. CSR Elite is now on 721b which has autoclutch and fixed the FFB deadspot, but now there are cooling fan issues when in the menus. Mine works great, but I only turn it on for racing. As soon as the race is over, I turn it off and grab a controller.
Where do you get these various firmware updates for the Fanatec wheels?
Are you requesting them directly from Fanatec support?
Sure not easy to find on the general website
I have my ways...he he.
I don't suffer from a dead zone??? what settings do you use?
Hey Knight, thanks for the reply. As far as settings, SENS is off, FF @ 70, SHO 100, DRI 2, ABS 80, LIN 0, DEA 0, SPR 0, DPR -2. Fans ON.
I've tried messing with FF settings, dampening, forced SENS at 270, but no go. Game dead zones for steering are 100/0.
I'm switching between Normal and SIm steering, as I haven't decided which works best for me - but either setting doesn't change the problem.
Seems there is a very small amount of dead zone in total, with the rest being between the FF sensing. What I've read online seems to be exclusive to FM4, as they say that FM3 and GT5 don't have this problem. Frankly, I'm stumped. Might be in my wheel. Anxious to hear from Fanatec.
Well... Normal is what is recomended by Thomas so I'd stick with that. Sens off is same as me, I have FF at 80 but I don't think that is relevent. SHO 100, DRI 003, ABS off, LIN 0, DEA 0, SPR 0, DPR 0 Fans on. Game settings untouched.
I thought the only issue left for CSR wheels and F4 was the liniarity (bloody spell check is not working) issue past 270. Anyhoo I am not saying those settings are the best but they work for me with no dead zone. So if you are still getting a dead zone with these settings I would supect the wheel.
You could try connecting to a pc and recalibrating and reflashing the firmware just to be sure.
I got the CSR package with the Standard pedals about two weeks ago. I just fnished e-mailing Fanatec concerning the center 'dead spot' issue. The precision of the wheel is negated by the sloppiness in the center, particularly noticable in a 220mph stock car on the Sunset oval. My wheel shipped with Firmware 706, which I believe is current for the Standard wheel. I sure hope that Fanatec / Turn Ten can resolve this issue. There are numerous reports of this on the various forums, and is a blemish in an otherwise great product. I believe there is a Firmware upgrade pending. Hopefully, it will fix this.
I use a CSR Elite and my settings are very similar to you guys. Just a few things different.
Here is what I use: SEn OFF, FF 100, Sho 100, Dri OFF, AbS 083, Lin 000, DEA 000, SPr 0, DPr -3
Try turning drift OFF and set DPr to -3, This will help with that deadzone feel at the center of steering, especially for ovals.
Another thing is you should always leave the FF at 100 on your wheel and adjust the FFB setting in your games for the strength you want. The way FFB works on Fanatec wheels is that it is the same starting FFB at all settings and the different levels you set it at on the wheel are just where it cuts it off. If you set it to anything less than 100, you are missing out on some of the FFB effects.
Thanks Troy I have made some adjustments to my settings to bring them in line with yours. Yes I see what you mean about FF, cheers.
Hey thanks, Troy. Will fire the wheel up and give these a try - looks promising. Also, great tip on the FF settings.