New Fanatec Firmware
#1
Sat, 08/25/2012 - 10:00
New Fanatec Firmware
Thomas' Blog is up and Fanatec has released new firmware addressing problems with the last beta. I have not updated my wheel yet but evidently it is now functioning with the GT2 wheels. I will post again after I update.
Yep, it works. Auto clutch is nice with cars that are actually paddle shifted. Force feedback is good. Don't foret to note your settings as they are cleared during the update( I did ).
I installed the new firmware, Version 750B, this morning on my CSR Elite. It works fine, no major changes for me. The fans are now always on, you no longer can turn them "off." If you decide to install the firmware, make sure you follow the instructions carefully. Also, after you install the firmware, you will need to re-center your wheel, and re-calibriate your H shifter.
I also installed the new PC driver. It also works fine. They fixed the bug where it would crash if you doubleclicked the desktop icon.
I just filed a claim with Fanatec a couple of days ago and they sent me 706. Do you know what has changed between 706 and this newest? My problem seems to come at random, the wheel will lose all ability for inputs from the user, the wheel itself turns hard left full lock and the gas goes WOT. The only way to interrupt this is to turn the wheel off. CSR with clubsport pedals. While this is happening, I have zero control. Attempting to reset the wheel manually will only result in it then going full lock left after I let go. Support seems to think it is a firmware issue, as I'm still on original CSR firmware from the initial release. Any opinions?
I should also note that they're sending me a new rim pcb since my directional stick has lost resistance when clicked to the right. Do you know if the firmware is physically stored on the base or in the wheel itself? If it is in the wheel, an update will be unnecessary since the new one is slated for arrival Monday.
Bit hard to say...there have been problems with MSL that exhibited exactly those symptoms for me...or did. Few things have changed since 706, Auto Clutch, new FFB, New fan setting yada yada...I have updated my wheel twice since 706, 715 (I think) was the best but notchy around the centre. The latest update seems fine so far and free of the bugs of some of the others. Pretty sure firmware is in base...
New firmware, 750B, is working well on my CSR Elite wheel. I am running Forza at 900 sensitivity, on wheel, 80% FFB, on wheel, and -3 damper on wheel.
My GT2 had the full lock, accel issues as well. Extremely intermittent. Since I updated I have lost mic capability(wired). Any one else had this issue?
GT2 for me as well. I don't think my wired MS headset is working with the wheel after this FW upgrade either. I can see the mic icon in the public lobby, and saw the gamtertags show on the screen but couldn't hear anything. Haven't been on with anyone from 2O4F to confirm yet.
Update - went back to FW681 and was able to record a voice message at the Xbox Live level. Couldn't do anything with FW 750B. Will be staying at 681 until Fanatec gets that sorted
Skiwinv, your the first one to confirm this for me. I did post in the comments on Thomas blog but no one has complained of headset issues yet.
Ring, that makes me happy to know I'm not alone. Having a wired headset though means I won't be jumping to 750 yet.
Yeah, guess I will be reverting as well. Really liked the auto clutch to. Was Mitch better than having to remember to change the in game settings back and forth.
Which version will you be reverting to, and is there a list of all the previous releases? I'm not entirely sure which I'm on yet, but I just recently received 706 from support in reference to my full lock/wot/loss of input issue. I'll probably wind up updating to it here within the next couple of days. I'll wait until my new rim piece comes in, though. I'm just procrastinating finding all the cables to hook up to the pc, they're still packed away somewhere.
EDIT: I also forgot to mention that when I turn the wheel on, none of my preferences are stored. Has anyone had that be a problem? I'll have to go back through and put them in again before syncing the wheel to the box, which is a pain in and of itself, but bearable.
Yeah your on an old firmware that had that problem, and remember you have a CSR so don't be swung by what other wheel users are reporting they are on their own firmware not the same as CSR. 706 is stable but lacks AC but will sort out that preference saving issue, Haven't tried mine on Forza yet so can't comment on mic issues on the new firmware, but there has been no mention of it on any forum relating to the CSR, will test tomorrow and report back.
I believe I have 638 stored on my computer. I believe the original beta post on the blog had a link to the old firmware. You will have to search back several pages to find it. I have been happy with that version on my GT2. Wish they would just release that with added auto clutch. Would also like to be able to run the wheel thru USB to the Xbox as that may solve the turn lock an accelerator issues. From what I have read this is possibly an issue with signal from the Xbox.
Version 681. It is on the 2nd page of previous blog entries at the end of the post.
Cool, I'll be looking forward to your report. Do you guys just not like using the clutch? I love it and probably would only use AC when driving racecars so that I could finally use my sequential shifter/paddles. Otherwise, I don't think I would intentionally set it to auto-clutching.
Definitely keeping in mind that I'm on a different wheel and that the firmware likely won't be the same across the board.
Depends on the car, and the competition, sometimes anything that will give me another few tenths a lap is just too much to pass up
Quite a few of the hi po sports cars are paddle/twin clutch what ever you want to call it. I dislike the semi auto in game, and after running some of the cars with the auto clutch I do want it. Don't get me wrong I love having the h pattern and it will not be going any where, I just want to drive cars as close as possible to how they were built.
Okay mic works as usual on the CSR with the new firmware. Wheel does do an odd ossilation after calibration, but once caught it stops and funtions fine...
It seems the post calibration oscillation is tied to the DRI settings on the wheel. Set your DRI to off, and restart to see if oscillation stops. I have my DRI set at 2, and the wheel oscillates twice, then centers. Go figure..
(edit)
Also,please note that SEN OFF no longer defaults to in game 270 - the new OFF SEN is now default @ 900. If you want SEN 270, you now have to manually select it.
All things considered, I'm very pleased with 750B on a CSR standard.
Well, I got everything fixed and updated to 750B. I'm not quite sure I'll be sticking with 750 though, the [s]compensation[/s] oscillation from left to right after calibration seems to also be affecting cars mid-corner. That or it is in my head. I will say this though, the amount of FFB on the wheel is absolutely insane now. I do find that the wheel isn't centering itself with as much force as the original firmware though, so that is making drifting kind of awkward. I might check out 706 if some tweaked wheel settings don't alleviate the centering and [s]compensation[/s] oscillation. [s](I really don't know how else to describe this compensation. Basically the wheel over rotating itself when it returns to center, but it doesn't do it with the prior force. It is more noticable now though, which is weird because like I said, it isn't as powerful when attempting to drift.)[/s]
EDIT: Oscillation, that is it.
Remove the usb lead from the wheel and then turn on. This stops the oscillation at the calibration stage. I forgot to do that...
I have the csr wheel. I downloaded the 750b firmware. I lost almost all the ffb when running it on the PC. On forza It felt like I had a lot of deadzone in the center. And when I turned the wheel about 30 degree the ffb would come on real strong. I reinstalled the 706 firmware and all feels right again.
Ah interesting, I'll change that because the ossilating returned. I had just posted about the sens thing myself but you out ninjad me, strangly the off setting does have that dead zone where actually setting 900 does not...odd.
Yup confirmed, on mine it starts that osillating on a dri of 2, and none at one.