i feel like kicking someone in the nuts
i feel like kicking someone in the nuts
[rant]
who, for the love of FUCK designed the captcha (or whatever the fuck its called) system of looking at a scribble and trying to discern letters and numbers so that you can register for a forum?
i want him standing before me with his legs apart, and i am going to kick a fucking 50 yard field goal.
[sarcasm] oh, we'll make it easier, click the link and you can hear a computer voice say the letters .[/sarcasm]
what? all the letters are all one of the following; b p e t c d g v z
THEY ALL FUCKING SOUND ALIKE ON A COMPUTER YOU DUMB ASS!
ok, got the fucking stupid ass phrase figured out....
[denied] password must contain a mix of upper and lower characters and a number.
Who the fuck is this asshole? ever think of telling me the parameters before asking me to enter a password?
there... upper, lower and a number.
sorry, must be 8 characters.
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaghghghghghhghghghhghghghgh
if i enter an 8 character password, with upper and lower case letters and a number and you deny it because i odn't have a special character, i am going to climb a fucking clock tower and start picking people off, i swear
all this just so i can post a fucking question in an electrical forum. one that i will most likely never visit again once i get my problem solved.
[/rant]
i need a drink
anyone here an electrician?
I agree. I like the Captcha system as well.
Bertt, let it out man, tell us how you really feel?
Best post of the day award.
Electrician, no but maybe I can help. What is the problem?
i got everything figured out to one point, but still have a problem.
I have a circuit, the power comes from the service panel via 12/2 to a light fixture in the basement laundry room
from there, a 14/3 wire runs to a second light fixture and then to a switch via 12/2 for these two lights. Power continues past the switch to a single GFCI outlet. everything to this point is good.
From there, power goes via 12/2 to a 3-way switch at the bottom of the stairs that controls a single light at the bottom of the stairs and there is a 14/3 wire that runs to a switch at the top of the stairs to control the same light.
I can't quite wrap my head around working (2) 3-way switches for one light with power coming into the middle switch. I understand electricity pretty well until you get into the 3-way switches. hot travels down the black to whatever and back on the neutral white.
I tried the configuration found here but what happens is the switch at the top of the stairs will not control the light unless the switch at the bottom is on.
I found another configuration here, but the light at the top of the stairs trips the breaker
I am thinking you may need to double check the wires somewhere. It sounds like a simple mistake.
First start off with the neutral. Run it off the light as it has to go to the source; say your breaker box.
Then there should be a terminal marked common on the 3 way switch and that is where the hot wires go. On one switch the hot wire needs to go to the breaker box. The other switch needs to have the hot wire go to the light fixture. If none of the terminals are designated common then you will have to manually test with a meter.
It is important to do that step first. Do not hook up the traveler wires until that is done.
Once that is done, all you have to do is connect the traveler wires. It does not matter where you conect the traveler wire as long as you conect the traveler to another traveler.
Make sure to connect the grounds.
It sounds like you may have accidentally conected a common to a traveler. Let me know how this works out. The important thing is to identify the common terminal on the switch. Once you do that and hook it up, you should be golden.
I was just coming back to say that I got it to work. You were right, I had made a mistake. the second diagram option is the one i used and I had made a mistake with one of the neutral wores, thinking i knew where it should go instead of looking again at the diagram.
thanks LocGaw.
i guess i was a little late. LOL
i typed it all, but didn't hit the submitt button until after dinner.
i see what you did, and hence the reason i say to use the first diagram.
No problem Bertt! Kudos to Wam for helping out.
it sounds like one of the switches is either not a three way switch or it is shorted and bad. if one of the switches is not a three way, you have connected a hot or neutral wire to a ground screw and this would cause a breaker to trip or the light not to come on in one position.
if you have a continuity tester check to see that both switches are working properly. put one lead on the single screw side of the switch. Then touch the other lead to the screws on the double screw side. only one should be a closed circuit (makes a sound or lights up the tester). then flip the switch and check the double screw side again. the other screw should now have a closed circuit. if there is a closed circuit on both screws with the switch in one position, there is a short and the switch is bad.
now put both leads on each of the screws on the double screw side. there should never be a closed circuit between those two screws. be sure to check it with the switch in both positions. if the tester lights up / beeps with the leads on these two screws, there is a short in the switch and it is bad.
of the two diagrams you supplied, the first one is the most conventional method. the second diagram is not as fool proof as the first. if possible, use the first one.
something else to consider...if you didn't run the cables yourself, then you need to make sure there are no splces that you aren't aware of causing the short.
yep, thanks Wam!