Don't go spending tons of dough just for PCars. Take your time and choose wisely. We've been through this before where things change and then you're stuck with what you got but not happy.
Hey guys, here is a video of me doing a few laps on my rig. It consists of three 39" flat screen TVs, resolution of 5760 x 1080 with my thrustmaster TX sporting the F1 add on wheel rim. Enjoy and let me know what you think.
I'm sorry, Nightfall. I have not used a game pad at all. Have you looked for vids featuring game pad play. I will look for some over at VVVs YT channel. I believe he's got some.
I Say Let's ALL Gang Tackle Zero For Any and All Perceptions of what he may have said and meant!!!
P.(arcell)S...First Prize for the Best Knuckle Noogie will be a XBoner One WITH a Thrustmaster Wheel ANNNNND a signed copy of the Limited Investor Edition Project Cars by No Other Than Zero Himself!!!!!
Are we setting up some regular meets for after release? I'll mainly be hot lapping, a bit if the career and just enjoying the new driving sim for a while to get used to the new physics model and see how it compares to FM GT etc., but I'm always up for a few laps online, I'm hoping the public lobbies are clean too for those times I fancy a random event online ... Fingers crossed.
I'm going to have to buy it twice though as I placed an order for the PS4 but then rememberd online isn't free on PS4 and I only pay for XBL (not psn) as more of the family (my kids) use my account/XBL to play minecraft with their friends online. Doh!
So I'll very likely use the XBOX version for online racing and the ps4 off line lol :)
Luckily my wheel will work on both versions so it's not a major fluff up :D
Parcells could have missed it with all this positive energy floating about but what about the damage modelling in this game?
Specifically, how well does the game assess and assign damage...like if I'm hit from behind might my car suffer damage in addition to the person hitting me? Would they take more damage than me or is it more random from what you've experienced?
Does overly agressive driving get penalized in your estimation?
I'll be using a controller....because it's a video game. Send me pics of you guys and your toy steering wheels and pedals so I can see what y'all are fighting over. I could use a good laugh.
Heres a ffb setup guide i grabbed off the Race department site from a wmd member who really knows the complicated FFB setup in pcars.
I am assuming the ffb parameters will be the same in the console version?
The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.
After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.
Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.
Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):
Fx = 48 Fy = 44 Fz = 54 Mz = 100
Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.
Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweakparameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.
EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.
FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.
Edit: ive been playing with a few paramaters not mentioned in his guide, called SOP in the car ffb setupit helps give a little feel to what the rear end is doing and quit enjoy the added effects
ive raised SOP, Lateral and differential all to .10 i would advise not going any higher as the front and rear effects will start fighting against each other and just feel terrible
The biggest thing people will have to get accustom to is driving slow till there tires heat up, it usually takes 2-3 laps in practice to get them up to optimum temp......there will be zero grip until then!
Heres a ffb setup guide i grabbed off the Race department site from a wmd member who really knows the complicated FFB setup in pcars.
I am assuming the ffb parameters will be the same in the console version?
The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.
After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.
Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.
Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):
Fx = 48 Fy = 44 Fz = 54 Mz = 100
Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.
Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweakparameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.
EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.
FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.
Edit: ive been playing with a few paramaters not mentioned in his guide, called SOP in the car ffb setupit helps give a little feel to what the rear end is doing and quit enjoy the added effects
ive raised SOP, Lateral and differential all to .10 i would advise not going any higher as the front and rear effects will start fighting against each other and just feel terrible
The biggest thing people will have to get accustom to is driving slow till there tires heat up, it usually takes 2-3 laps in practice to get them up to optimum temp......there will be zero grip until then!
Where is the "real game perameters" in the menu...I found everything else but not this. Also the article said "setting below FFB" which in my game it seemed to be a couple ABOVE the FFB strength. Maybe this was done on an earlier version and they are called a different thing?? Also after I changed some things and saved when I went to another race (same car) it seems they went back to default. Maybe I did something wrong..
I know you mentioned that you would start a thread on setups I just thought I would ask...Thanks
heres a little tidbit i got from the forum for the pc users and those i gifted key steam codes to......the full retail version will be available tomorrow on steam for you to play before its released to the world at midnight :)
the keys i gifted are Senior membership tiers so you will have full access to everything and all the day 1 DLC content for free and i believe all future dlc aswell
Hi everyone,
As we are getting very close to the release, I'd like to inform you about what's going to happen in the following pre-release hours now:
The discounts for Junior and Team Members will finally go out later today, probably at some point in the afternoon when Valve guys are up and at work. Therefore I will be removing the game from Junior and Team Member accounts in several hours, so that you can purchase it using the discount as soon as possible, and preload it before it's released.
This afternoon I will also start resetting all leaderboards, and create new boards for the release build of the game. This means that you won't be able to set leaderboard times until you switch to the retail version of the game. We will also enable non-testing Community Events at that point.
For all WMD tiers apart from Juniors and Team Members the switch to the retail version should happen automatically. It will be just a normal and tiny patch for you. It will happen at some point tomorrow morning (EU time), so you will most likely receive the full retail version shortly before it unlocks for the rest of the Universe.
Again, we are sorry that various technical and communication difficulties delayed the release of the discount coupons, but hopefully all should be good now!
This is going to be epic. Just need to sort out a sub forum not sure how its done. I cant on mine but it may be something only the main guy can do so maybe Brnt can do it?
This is going to be epic. Just need to sort out a sub forum not sure how its done. I cant on mine but it may be something only the main guy can do so maybe Brnt can do it?
Good point. Guess one should of been made by now anyway. Will look into it.
I'm calling a Formula Gulf 1000 series now. I will give everyone time to pick up the game and get settled in with it. I will host some pick up races on Sunday nights. Probably 8pm EST. It will be this car:
1st impression,
Very promising!
Ran my first race in Clio cup at Donnington.
Need to up the difficulty of the AI.
Also need to figure out the myriad of FFB options.
Snappy, could you post your settings?
Very, Very promising
Not sure if Im doing something wrong . I am running the PC verision and this is what im feeling with the cars . Cars that would normally run with a clutch when set to auto clutch with manual gear change , the car rpm rev up than down to zero when pressing the throttle. On the nissan Oreca i believe the name is . With this car i come flying out the pits and the gears change like they should in squential mode but after a few turns the car seems to boog down . This is with damage set to off abs off . Again not sure if I have some settings incorrect. Please help ......Krupt Im speaking to you . By the way Krupt the post of the FFB settings was perfect brought my wheel to life. Thanks.
What pedals are you using? I also use auto clutch because I don't have a shifter atm and use the paddles.
few things to look at.....
there's been random times my csr elite pedals in multiple games only show 50% power I usually unplug them plug back in and reboot my system all ways seems to sort them
In the wheel setup menu map all your buttons and pedals than at the bottom configure both wheel and pedals to make sure the inputs are being registered....make sure to click save :)
Try those and see if it helps
Don't go spending tons of dough just for PCars. Take your time and choose wisely. We've been through this before where things change and then you're stuck with what you got but not happy.
Yeah, I think we're the following Tuesday?
Hey guys, here is a video of me doing a few laps on my rig. It consists of three 39" flat screen TVs, resolution of 5760 x 1080 with my thrustmaster TX sporting the F1 add on wheel rim. Enjoy and let me know what you think.
http://youtu.be/IoTRum07U1o
Snappy can you comment on how the game is with a controller? I know Xbox controllers can be used on a PC.
I'm sorry, Nightfall. I have not used a game pad at all. Have you looked for vids featuring game pad play. I will look for some over at VVVs YT channel. I believe he's got some.
I Say Let's ALL Gang Tackle Zero For Any and All Perceptions of what he may have said and meant!!!
P.(arcell)S...First Prize for the Best Knuckle Noogie will be a XBoner One WITH a Thrustmaster Wheel ANNNNND a signed copy of the Limited Investor Edition Project Cars by No Other Than Zero Himself!!!!!
Are we setting up some regular meets for after release? I'll mainly be hot lapping, a bit if the career and just enjoying the new driving sim for a while to get used to the new physics model and see how it compares to FM GT etc., but I'm always up for a few laps online, I'm hoping the public lobbies are clean too for those times I fancy a random event online ... Fingers crossed.
I'm going to have to buy it twice though as I placed an order for the PS4 but then rememberd online isn't free on PS4 and I only pay for XBL (not psn) as more of the family (my kids) use my account/XBL to play minecraft with their friends online. Doh!
So I'll very likely use the XBOX version for online racing and the ps4 off line lol :)
Luckily my wheel will work on both versions so it's not a major fluff up :D
Hate to pile on with more Debbie downer business but there's no way in hell that's gonna happen.
Parcells could have missed it with all this positive energy floating about but what about the damage modelling in this game?
Specifically, how well does the game assess and assign damage...like if I'm hit from behind might my car suffer damage in addition to the person hitting me? Would they take more damage than me or is it more random from what you've experienced?
Does overly agressive driving get penalized in your estimation?
I'll be using a controller....because it's a video game. Send me pics of you guys and your toy steering wheels and pedals so I can see what y'all are fighting over. I could use a good laugh.
^^^^^ lololol ^^^^^
You must have had a good laugh at my video. It is sorta silly when you really think about it. lol
I don't have the room, so the cost isn't even a factor at this point, I'll be using a controller just like Jonesy.
Heres a ffb setup guide i grabbed off the Race department site from a wmd member who really knows the complicated FFB setup in pcars.
I am assuming the ffb parameters will be the same in the console version?
The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.
After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.
Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.
Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):
Fx = 48
Fy = 44
Fz = 54
Mz = 100
Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.
Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweakparameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.
EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.
FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.
Edit: ive been playing with a few paramaters not mentioned in his guide, called SOP in the car ffb setupit helps give a little feel to what the rear end is doing and quit enjoy the added effects
ive raised SOP, Lateral and differential all to .10 i would advise not going any higher as the front and rear effects will start fighting against each other and just feel terrible
The biggest thing people will have to get accustom to is driving slow till there tires heat up, it usually takes 2-3 laps in practice to get them up to optimum temp......there will be zero grip until then!
Where is the "real game perameters" in the menu...I found everything else but not this. Also the article said "setting below FFB" which in my game it seemed to be a couple ABOVE the FFB strength. Maybe this was done on an earlier version and they are called a different thing?? Also after I changed some things and saved when I went to another race (same car) it seems they went back to default. Maybe I did something wrong..
I know you mentioned that you would start a thread on setups I just thought I would ask...Thanks
heres a little tidbit i got from the forum for the pc users and those i gifted key steam codes to......the full retail version will be available tomorrow on steam for you to play before its released to the world at midnight :)
the keys i gifted are Senior membership tiers so you will have full access to everything and all the day 1 DLC content for free and i believe all future dlc aswell
Hi everyone,
As we are getting very close to the release, I'd like to inform you about what's going to happen in the following pre-release hours now:
Again, we are sorry that various technical and communication difficulties delayed the release of the discount coupons, but hopefully all should be good now!
Thanks,
Stepan
Yes! I just received my Thrustmaster T3PA Pro pedal set today as well.
Pretty soon I will have a nice set of Fanatec Club Sport V2 pedals up for sale.
In lighter news... as I live in the world of 2005 internet, my order has shipped so now very excited!
Give me some reviews guys. I plan to pick this up on PC soon, but would still like to know what I'm getting into.
This is going to be epic. Just need to sort out a sub forum not sure how its done. I cant on mine but it may be something only the main guy can do so maybe Brnt can do it?
Steam has started preloading the game and it really did not take long at all. I try and give my feedback after I play the game. Jim
Steam has started preloading the game and it really did not take long at all. I try and give my feedback after I play the game. Jim
I'm calling a Formula Gulf 1000 series now. I will give everyone time to pick up the game and get settled in with it. I will host some pick up races on Sunday nights. Probably 8pm EST. It will be this car:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zI0sFMRsVuk
could you bring that forward a couple of hours snappy to 5PM EST for us euro guys
and the digital pre orders for the UK and europe are up and running on the xbone now guys
Not sure if Im doing something wrong . I am running the PC verision and this is what im feeling with the cars . Cars that would normally run with a clutch when set to auto clutch with manual gear change , the car rpm rev up than down to zero when pressing the throttle. On the nissan Oreca i believe the name is . With this car i come flying out the pits and the gears change like they should in squential mode but after a few turns the car seems to boog down . This is with damage set to off abs off . Again not sure if I have some settings incorrect. Please help ......Krupt Im speaking to you . By the way Krupt the post of the FFB settings was perfect brought my wheel to life. Thanks.