Troy, I guarantee you that there is a stunningly great game within the PC version of Project CARS, just try out the wheel settings that Kurupt and/or I posted. Once you get that squared away, I think you will find that Project CARS offers the same kind of FFB and physics that iRacing offers, but with better graphics and a cool, innovative career mode where you can simulate the life of a real race car driver trying to move up the ladder. I am loving every minute of it. On the PC, I started with the Ginetta GT4 series and won it, which prompted invitations from many of the GT3 teams, including the team that runs the BMW Z4. I accepted their invite and am now in the middle of the GT3 American series, which is awesome.
The Xbox One game is a question right now, since the FFB is not 100% there. My settings help, but they clearly need to release a patch. I am running the Formula Rookie series on the Xbox One and am nonetheless having a ball. You might decide to start with that series on the PC version, I am sure it will be a blast.
From a forum member over at RaceDepartment. It is the guide I used to get the FFB where I like it.
From bmanic:
UPDATE! I changed Relative Adjust Bleed to 0.3 instead of 0.45 (which could cause some oddities)
UPDATE2!: More and more people with other wheel brands have tried the settings and it's starting to look as if these may work for quite a few wheels. T500 is confirmed as working pretty well, Fanatec GT2/GT3RS v2 also confirmed as working better than defaults and one Fanatec CSW v2 also happy.
UPDATE3!: There seems to be some confusion about Steering Arm Angle and what it is. It is NOT the same as Steering Ratio, which is a VEHICLE SETUP parameter. Arm Angle can be found in the car garage menu, under the Force Feedback Tab (it's the middle tab, between Vehicle and Summary tabs), the last option on the first page is called Arm Angle. This is the one I mean. Everything in this thread is about Force Feedback, not about vehicle setups!
Update4!: Brandon Wright noticed quite a bit of spikes and odd behavior which seems to be related to the Relative Adjust Bleed parameter. It is possible that my value of 0.3 is still too large so if any of you guys are suffering from these spikes then try a lower setting. You can go as low as 0.05 until you lose the benefit of the Relative Adjust processing block.
Hi guys,
So I finally had some time to play the game and I've spent the whole day experimenting with a new way to squeeze the massive FFB dynamic range into a range that our consumer wheels can tolerate while getting as much information as possible from the FFB (meaning: no hard clipping).
I would love it if you Thrustmaster TX and T300 owners would try these settings. NOTE: You must follow these instructions TO THE LETTER or the experience will be different to mine. Feedback that is provided without following every single point to the letter will be useless and thus ignored.
Why? Because the FFB system in pCars is extremely flexible and thus complex. It is also highly dynamic which means that a single tiny tweak of a crucial parameter (like tire force / master scale multiplier, spindle arm angle or the ratio of Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz) will alter the system. Thus, if you want stronger or weaker forces, use your Thrustmaster Control Panel program to control this! Do NOT change the in-game settings to achieve this!
These are my Thrustmaster Control Panel gain settings:
Overall strength of all forces = 75% Constant = 100% Periodic = 0% Spring = 0% Damper = 0%
Auto-center settings = by the game (recommended)
Step 1)
Set your Thrustmaster Control Panel settings. You can use my settings to start with. These result in fairly heavy forces. A good workout but not impossible to drive with. If you are a masochist, set the strength to 100%. I often drive longer races with the strength set to 60%.
Step 2)
Start Project CARS and reset your wheel then do the wheel calibration again as follows:
a) turn wheel FULLY LEFT AND RIGHT.. all the way! My TX wheel requires me to truly wrestle the wheel to get it 100%, otherwise it stops at 96%.
b) follow the 90 degree rotation to the letter.. this means you set your wheel so that it is physically pointing exactly 90 degrees to either left or right. Do NOT set it so that you get perfectly 900 or 1080 degrees here. Set it so that it is truly pointing 90 degrees to either side. For example, my wheel when set so that it is physically pointing 90 degrees results in a steering rotation of 882 degrees.
c) calibrate your pedals
d) configure your buttons
Step 3)
Make sure your FFB Strength in-game is set to 100/maximum! This is very important! It defaults to 75. Also make sure the FFB damping saturation setting is set to ZERO. It defaults to 25. (you find these options under the CONFIGURATION tab in the controls preferences)
Step 4)
Go into the "calibrate FFB" menu and set the following (parameters not mentioned should be left at default!):
Tire Force = 100
Deadzone Removal Range = 0.03 Deadzone Removal Falloff = 0.02
Relative Adjust Gain = 1.37 (sometimes it shows 137 and leaves the " . " out) Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.30 Relative Adjust Clamp = 1.33 (sometimes it shows 133 and leaves the " . " out)
Individual car setup FFB settings! I've only had time to test 3 cars but from these you can quickly extrapolate and get the general idea. The main idea is to have a Mz heavy setup and to set a good spindle arm angle and then to set a good Master Scale value so that the FFB "pushes" into the Relative Gain and Soft Clipping at proper levels. These usually end up in the 26 to 36 range, depending on how much down force the car produces or how heavy it is. Here are the settings for the 3 cars that tried:
<--- CAR SETUP - FFB TAB - --->
Lykan Hypersport:
Master Scale = 32
Fx = 68 Fy = 36 Fz = 74 Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2200
BMW Z4 GT3:
Master Scale = 28
Fx = 66 Fy = 44 Fz = 82 Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2000
Formula B:
Master Scale = 30
Fx = 68 Fy = 36 Fz = 74 Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2500 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
That's it. You are done. Go into the game and enjoy pretty detailed FFB. To appreciate the full range of FFB I highly recommend turning off all driving aids. I'll add more cars to this thread once I have a chance to test some more.
NOTE!: I will NOT be providing FFB .xml files because they do not seem to work as expected. This is a complete system where every individual setting feeds into one another and thus becomes a quite complex thing. The general signal flow is like this (at least it used to be like this right before release):
Tire Force * Master Scale -> Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz -> Spindle Arm Angle -> Relative Gain -> Soft Clipping -> Scoop -> Tighten Center
As I've understood it, Relative Gain and Soft Clipping are non-linear functions and thus quite complex in nature. Even small input variations can cause quite a different feel in the wheel. Because there are two of these functions after one another and they feed an inherently non-linear device (your consumer wheel) you can probably appreciate how quickly things get complicated. You'll easily notice this by simply tweaking the Master Scale of each car or change the Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz relative ratios. Like I said in the beginning of the post, the main point is to squeeze as much "useful" information into the limited dynamic range of our consumer wheels and this means compressing the heck out of it.
You lucky s.o.b's with direct drive wheels can ignore all this and simply set pCars as fully linear and have a ridiculously awesome experience. You may still want to adjust the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings like I have them above but disregard everything else (remove all soft clip and all relative gain and scoop stuff. Heck, I'd even remove tighten center).
These were obviously on a Thrustmaster wheel but there has been at least 1 Fanatec CSW V1 user who has tried it and been very happy. I will keep looking for more wheel settings for you Troy.
For TX wheel, both of those links were very helpful in "waking up" the FFB on the XBone for me. In fact, when I applied the formula A tune from NVIOUS on the project cars forum, it is down right awesome!
Here's that link:http: //forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?23235-Multiple-1-Leaderboard-Tune-Formula-A-Xbone-PC-PS4-n-wheel-Updated-Version2-tune
Now, all we need is for Foot to start an open source tune thread here to tune the vehicle and we'll be good to go.
For TX wheel, both of those links were very helpful in "waking up" the FFB on the XBone for me. In fact, when I applied the formula A tune from NVIOUS on the project cars forum, it is down right awesome!
Here's that link:http: //forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?23235-Multiple-1-Leaderboard-Tune-Formula-A-Xbone-PC-PS4-n-wheel-Updated-Version2-tune
Now, all we need is for Foot to start an open source tune thread here to tune the vehicle and we'll be good to go.
Everyone of Foot's FM5 tunes are top notch.
Thanks for the endorsement! I haven't gotten too deep into the tuning yet but what I've seen so far it seems to "make sense".
Example: I can't remember the car, but when braking while slightly turning the back end kept stepping out, so I move the brake bias forward from 55% to 60% and problem solved.
Another time a car seemed too nervous or skittish so I just softened all springs and dampers a few clicks and it improved the cars grip.
For my GT4 I went with a hog of a car (the Mustang)......... Ive got 2 more races in my Championship.....Im currently in 2nd place overall with 5 points difference between 1st and third...and I have a bad feeling its going to rain.........I have never been so stressed out over a fucking video game in my life!!!!!
For my GT4 I went with a hog of a car (the Mustang)......... Ive got 2 more races in my Championship.....Im currently in 2nd place overall with 5 points difference between 1st and third...and I have a bad feeling its going to rain.........I have never been so stressed out over a fucking video game in my life!!!!!
Just turn down the difficulty, why get stressed out? LOL!
For my GT4 I went with a hog of a car (the Mustang)......... Ive got 2 more races in my Championship.....Im currently in 2nd place overall with 5 points difference between 1st and third...and I have a bad feeling its going to rain.........I have never been so stressed out over a fucking video game in my life!!!!!
Just turn down the difficulty, why get stressed out? LOL!
Oh I dont mean Im hating the game..Im loving the realizm it has...some of the best races Ive ever had in a Single Player Career.
I asked this earlier but it didnt get answered....How do you have multiple pit stop stragedy...I had three saved but when I "activated" the one I wanted it never uses that one...It always default to which ever one is on top of my list.....In this case a Kart setup...I must be overlooking something
This game has been driving me crazy. I love so much about it and see so much potential, but the damn pad issues have got me damn near a mental breakdown. Initially I was having lots of trouble getting my pad settings dialed in. I could drive, but it was very difficult and I had absolutely no consistency. I took a break from it for I think 2 days and when I get back on, without changing any of my previous settings, the game feels different. So now I'm thinking, did they release the patch and not tell anybody? I raced a few sessions with Gizz and a few other members and I was asking people if the patch was out... Clearly it wasn't so that can only mean one thing, I'm officially crazy. This game has pushed me over the edge and I'm now clinically insane...
With that being said I hopped on the PCARS forum and inspected the sticky thread on the XB1 pad settings. I tried the suggested set up and tweaked it a bit for my liking, it's a little better but I'm hoping the patch cures the mental sickness this game has inflicted upon me.
ALL PAD USERS REJOICE! THE FUCKING PCARS PATCH HAS ARRIVED!!!
May there be plenty of great racing in the near future.
Yep, patch is out tomorrow the 28th. What time? Who knows. Honestly though I wasn't having any issues driving with the controller. Hopefully this patch doesn't cause me problems.
I have been having way too much fun with The Witcher 3 to play Project CARS this past week though. Soon Elder Scrolls Online comes out, hopefully that game doesn't suck me in as deep, giving me time to play CARS again.
I've had littlle time to play but I'm working my way through the F Rookie series. On race set three of the championship I think? Just did Suzuka and Sonoma (love it) and it's back to Oulton Park (WTF?)
The pad feels like it's too slow and I'm experiencing the wheel lock thing I've heard mentioned finally. Very aggravating. The car also tends to have the rear drift out on off throttle (no brakes) at the most inopportune times. Don't think there's much available to tune on the thing though...
Gamepad Controllers: * Added ABS brake rumble to Xbox One triggers, so that the triggers will rumble on losing traction when braking. The amount of trigger rumble is controlled together with Force Feedback strength via the Force Feedback slider. * Improved the efficiency of the controller rumble effect, to help make the steering more responsive on the Xbox One. * Fixed an issue where moving the sticks from one extreme to the other would sometimes result in the steering getting stuck. * Reworked the Xbox One analogue sticks range and axis dead zones, providing much improved steering control.
Wheel Controllers: * Fanatec wheels – Fixed the issue with steering jolts that some users experience.
Online: * Fixed an occasional crash when advancing from Qualifying to Race. * Fixed an occasional crash when returning from a race to the Race Central.
Time Trial: * Set Time Trials starting time to 11am to match the PC platform. This ensures consistent track temperatures across all platforms, as track temperatures affect lap times.
Ghosts: * Enabled saving of community event ghosts. These ghosts are automatically stored online, and you can then download ghosts of other players’ laps for these events.
Tracks: * Sakitto and Summerton variations - Corrected track info regarding number of turns and track length. * Sakitto Sprint - Fixed a crash that would at times occur when using time acceleration. * Cadwell variations - Fixed draw distance issues on various objects. * Oschersleben variations - Fixed odd lights around track and colour issues with the horizon. * Zolder - Fixed an issue where the player car would sometimes start in a closed garage.
AI: * Fixed an issue where AI vehicles were sometimes sent to the pits due to low fuel on races where refueling is not allowed.
Pitstops: * Pitstop strategy will now use the actual bar value for tyre pressures. * Fixed an issue where the Pit engineer would repeatedly inform the player that a pit crew member has lost a wheel nut during pit stops. * Fixed an issue where the Pit Engineer would call the player to stop for fuel when fuel consumption was disabled in options.
Replays: * Improved the smoothness of the sun, moon, stars, and shadow motion when rewinding replays of a race that had a high time acceleration.
Driver Network Profile: * Fixed an issue where at times the miles driven on a particular track or with a particular car would be logged under the wrong car or track. This improves the accuracy of the player’s Affinity ratings.
Thanks, dtt! I trust your feedback! Now get on the hot lapping already!
Justdid a full race weekend in the ginettas, much fun was had! Looks like Oulton Park still has some frame rate issues though. I got a stutter at final corner and handling was trickier in race than qualifying..
I tried the Xbox One version of Project CARS this morning with my TX wheel, post patch (I think), and it feels the same. I am still getting little or no FFB around center during turns, which is a dealbreaker for me. I have installed the game on my desktop PC, which is hooked up to the same HDTV as my Xbox One. I am using the TX wheel and the FFB feels amazing. I guess us wheel users have to wait for the next patch for help???
God Damn!!!!....This Game looks just like another Game of Bitch Patch....Bitch about a problem hard enough and you get a patch...I can understand now why this game took so long for release. Must be Really Nice being a Developer these days....Release your game (1/2?...1/4 Ass Done) and let the user point out the mistakes or tweaks needed...Sticking with GT6 until "You All" make this game right!!!
God Damn!!!!....This Game looks just like another Game of Bitch Patch....Bitch about a problem hard enough and you get a patch...I can understand now why this game took so long for release. Must be Really Nice being a Developer these days....Release your game (1/2?...1/4 Ass Done) and let the user point out the mistakes or tweaks needed...Sticking with GT6 until "You All" make this game right!!!
P.(arcell)S....Please Hurry Guys!!!
The game is sheer bliss on PC, it might be my favorite racing game of all time, next to iRacing. The problem is that SMS did a half ass job on the Xbox One port.
Troy, I guarantee you that there is a stunningly great game within the PC version of Project CARS, just try out the wheel settings that Kurupt and/or I posted. Once you get that squared away, I think you will find that Project CARS offers the same kind of FFB and physics that iRacing offers, but with better graphics and a cool, innovative career mode where you can simulate the life of a real race car driver trying to move up the ladder. I am loving every minute of it. On the PC, I started with the Ginetta GT4 series and won it, which prompted invitations from many of the GT3 teams, including the team that runs the BMW Z4. I accepted their invite and am now in the middle of the GT3 American series, which is awesome.
The Xbox One game is a question right now, since the FFB is not 100% there. My settings help, but they clearly need to release a patch. I am running the Formula Rookie series on the Xbox One and am nonetheless having a ball. You might decide to start with that series on the PC version, I am sure it will be a blast.
From a forum member over at RaceDepartment. It is the guide I used to get the FFB where I like it.
From bmanic:
UPDATE! I changed Relative Adjust Bleed to 0.3 instead of 0.45 (which could cause some oddities)
UPDATE2!: More and more people with other wheel brands have tried the settings and it's starting to look as if these may work for quite a few wheels. T500 is confirmed as working pretty well, Fanatec GT2/GT3RS v2 also confirmed as working better than defaults and one Fanatec CSW v2 also happy.
UPDATE3!: There seems to be some confusion about Steering Arm Angle and what it is. It is NOT the same as Steering Ratio, which is a VEHICLE SETUP parameter. Arm Angle can be found in the car garage menu, under the Force Feedback Tab (it's the middle tab, between Vehicle and Summary tabs), the last option on the first page is called Arm Angle. This is the one I mean. Everything in this thread is about Force Feedback, not about vehicle setups!
Update4!: Brandon Wright noticed quite a bit of spikes and odd behavior which seems to be related to the Relative Adjust Bleed parameter. It is possible that my value of 0.3 is still too large so if any of you guys are suffering from these spikes then try a lower setting. You can go as low as 0.05 until you lose the benefit of the Relative Adjust processing block.
Hi guys,
So I finally had some time to play the game and I've spent the whole day experimenting with a new way to squeeze the massive FFB dynamic range into a range that our consumer wheels can tolerate while getting as much information as possible from the FFB (meaning: no hard clipping).
I would love it if you Thrustmaster TX and T300 owners would try these settings. NOTE: You must follow these instructions TO THE LETTER or the experience will be different to mine. Feedback that is provided without following every single point to the letter will be useless and thus ignored.
Why? Because the FFB system in pCars is extremely flexible and thus complex. It is also highly dynamic which means that a single tiny tweak of a crucial parameter (like tire force / master scale multiplier, spindle arm angle or the ratio of Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz) will alter the system. Thus, if you want stronger or weaker forces, use your Thrustmaster Control Panel program to control this! Do NOT change the in-game settings to achieve this!
These are my Thrustmaster Control Panel gain settings:
Overall strength of all forces = 75%
Constant = 100%
Periodic = 0%
Spring = 0%
Damper = 0%
Auto-center settings = by the game (recommended)
Step 1)
Set your Thrustmaster Control Panel settings. You can use my settings to start with. These result in fairly heavy forces. A good workout but not impossible to drive with. If you are a masochist, set the strength to 100%. I often drive longer races with the strength set to 60%.
Step 2)
Start Project CARS and reset your wheel then do the wheel calibration again as follows:
a) turn wheel FULLY LEFT AND RIGHT.. all the way! My TX wheel requires me to truly wrestle the wheel to get it 100%, otherwise it stops at 96%.
b) follow the 90 degree rotation to the letter.. this means you set your wheel so that it is physically pointing exactly 90 degrees to either left or right. Do NOT set it so that you get perfectly 900 or 1080 degrees here. Set it so that it is truly pointing 90 degrees to either side. For example, my wheel when set so that it is physically pointing 90 degrees results in a steering rotation of 882 degrees.
c) calibrate your pedals
d) configure your buttons
Step 3)
Make sure your FFB Strength in-game is set to 100/maximum! This is very important! It defaults to 75. Also make sure the FFB damping saturation setting is set to ZERO. It defaults to 25. (you find these options under the CONFIGURATION tab in the controls preferences)
Step 4)
Go into the "calibrate FFB" menu and set the following (parameters not mentioned should be left at default!):
Tire Force = 100
Deadzone Removal Range = 0.03
Deadzone Removal Falloff = 0.02
Relative Adjust Gain = 1.37 (sometimes it shows 137 and leaves the " . " out)
Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.30
Relative Adjust Clamp = 1.33 (sometimes it shows 133 and leaves the " . " out)
Scoop Knee = 0.12
Scoop Reduction = 0.08
Soft Clipping (Half Input) = 0.60
Soft Clipping (Full Output) = 1.79
Step 5)
Individual car setup FFB settings! I've only had time to test 3 cars but from these you can quickly extrapolate and get the general idea. The main idea is to have a Mz heavy setup and to set a good spindle arm angle and then to set a good Master Scale value so that the FFB "pushes" into the Relative Gain and Soft Clipping at proper levels. These usually end up in the 26 to 36 range, depending on how much down force the car produces or how heavy it is. Here are the settings for the 3 cars that tried:
<--- CAR SETUP - FFB TAB - --->
Lykan Hypersport:
Master Scale = 32
Fx = 68
Fy = 36
Fz = 74
Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2200
BMW Z4 GT3:
Master Scale = 28
Fx = 66
Fy = 44
Fz = 82
Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2000
Formula B:
Master Scale = 30
Fx = 68
Fy = 36
Fz = 74
Mz = 100
(note!! set all Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz smoothing to zero!!)
Steering Arm Angle = 2500
----------------------------------------------------------------------
That's it. You are done. Go into the game and enjoy pretty detailed FFB. To appreciate the full range of FFB I highly recommend turning off all driving aids. I'll add more cars to this thread once I have a chance to test some more.
NOTE!: I will NOT be providing FFB .xml files because they do not seem to work as expected. This is a complete system where every individual setting feeds into one another and thus becomes a quite complex thing. The general signal flow is like this (at least it used to be like this right before release):
Tire Force * Master Scale -> Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz -> Spindle Arm Angle -> Relative Gain -> Soft Clipping -> Scoop -> Tighten Center
As I've understood it, Relative Gain and Soft Clipping are non-linear functions and thus quite complex in nature. Even small input variations can cause quite a different feel in the wheel. Because there are two of these functions after one another and they feed an inherently non-linear device (your consumer wheel) you can probably appreciate how quickly things get complicated. You'll easily notice this by simply tweaking the Master Scale of each car or change the Fx, Fy, Fz, Mz relative ratios. Like I said in the beginning of the post, the main point is to squeeze as much "useful" information into the limited dynamic range of our consumer wheels and this means compressing the heck out of it.
You lucky s.o.b's with direct drive wheels can ignore all this and simply set pCars as fully linear and have a ridiculously awesome experience. You may still want to adjust the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings like I have them above but disregard everything else (remove all soft clip and all relative gain and scoop stuff. Heck, I'd even remove tighten center).
Cheers!
bManic
These were obviously on a Thrustmaster wheel but there has been at least 1 Fanatec CSW V1 user who has tried it and been very happy. I will keep looking for more wheel settings for you Troy.
Found theses settings in the Project Cars Forum, has a spread sheet for every car. I've had good luck with them so far.
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?24582-Universal-FFB-Sett...
For TX wheel, both of those links were very helpful in "waking up" the FFB on the XBone for me. In fact, when I applied the formula A tune from NVIOUS on the project cars forum, it is down right awesome!
Here's that link:http: //forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?23235-Multiple-1-Leaderboard-Tune-Formula-A-Xbone-PC-PS4-n-wheel-Updated-Version2-tune
Now, all we need is for Foot to start an open source tune thread here to tune the vehicle and we'll be good to go.
Everyone of Foot's FM5 tunes are top notch.Thanks for the endorsement! I haven't gotten too deep into the tuning yet but what I've seen so far it seems to "make sense".
Example: I can't remember the car, but when braking while slightly turning the back end kept stepping out, so I move the brake bias forward from 55% to 60% and problem solved.
Another time a car seemed too nervous or skittish so I just softened all springs and dampers a few clicks and it improved the cars grip.
For my GT4 I went with a hog of a car (the Mustang)......... Ive got 2 more races in my Championship.....Im currently in 2nd place overall with 5 points difference between 1st and third...and I have a bad feeling its going to rain.........I have never been so stressed out over a fucking video game in my life!!!!!
Just turn down the difficulty, why get stressed out? LOL!
Oh I dont mean Im hating the game..Im loving the realizm it has...some of the best races Ive ever had in a Single Player Career.
I asked this earlier but it didnt get answered....How do you have multiple pit stop stragedy...I had three saved but when I "activated" the one I wanted it never uses that one...It always default to which ever one is on top of my list.....In this case a Kart setup...I must be overlooking something
Still can't play with controller! WTF
:) :) :) I've not played since those two nights when it came out so looking forward to being able to steer
Finally, THE PATCH!
This game has been driving me crazy. I love so much about it and see so much potential, but the damn pad issues have got me damn near a mental breakdown. Initially I was having lots of trouble getting my pad settings dialed in. I could drive, but it was very difficult and I had absolutely no consistency. I took a break from it for I think 2 days and when I get back on, without changing any of my previous settings, the game feels different. So now I'm thinking, did they release the patch and not tell anybody? I raced a few sessions with Gizz and a few other members and I was asking people if the patch was out... Clearly it wasn't so that can only mean one thing, I'm officially crazy. This game has pushed me over the edge and I'm now clinically insane...
With that being said I hopped on the PCARS forum and inspected the sticky thread on the XB1 pad settings. I tried the suggested set up and tweaked it a bit for my liking, it's a little better but I'm hoping the patch cures the mental sickness this game has inflicted upon me.
ALL PAD USERS REJOICE! THE FUCKING PCARS PATCH HAS ARRIVED!!!
May there be plenty of great racing in the near future.
See ya on the track...
Yep, patch is out tomorrow the 28th. What time? Who knows. Honestly though I wasn't having any issues driving with the controller. Hopefully this patch doesn't cause me problems.
I have been having way too much fun with The Witcher 3 to play Project CARS this past week though. Soon Elder Scrolls Online comes out, hopefully that game doesn't suck me in as deep, giving me time to play CARS again.
I've had littlle time to play but I'm working my way through the F Rookie series. On race set three of the championship I think? Just did Suzuka and Sonoma (love it) and it's back to Oulton Park (WTF?)
The pad feels like it's too slow and I'm experiencing the wheel lock thing I've heard mentioned finally. Very aggravating. The car also tends to have the rear drift out on off throttle (no brakes) at the most inopportune times. Don't think there's much available to tune on the thing though...
So patch tomorrow then?
Project CARS – Xbox One Patch 1.3 - Fixed Issues
Gamepad Controllers:
* Added ABS brake rumble to Xbox One triggers, so that the triggers will rumble on losing traction when braking. The amount of trigger rumble is controlled together with Force Feedback strength via the Force Feedback slider.
* Improved the efficiency of the controller rumble effect, to help make the steering more responsive on the Xbox One.
* Fixed an issue where moving the sticks from one extreme to the other would sometimes result in the steering getting stuck.
* Reworked the Xbox One analogue sticks range and axis dead zones, providing much improved steering control.
Wheel Controllers:
* Fanatec wheels – Fixed the issue with steering jolts that some users experience.
Online:
* Fixed an occasional crash when advancing from Qualifying to Race.
* Fixed an occasional crash when returning from a race to the Race Central.
Time Trial:
* Set Time Trials starting time to 11am to match the PC platform. This ensures consistent track temperatures across all platforms, as track temperatures affect lap times.
Ghosts:
* Enabled saving of community event ghosts. These ghosts are automatically stored online, and you can then download ghosts of other players’ laps for these events.
Tracks:
* Sakitto and Summerton variations - Corrected track info regarding number of turns and track length.
* Sakitto Sprint - Fixed a crash that would at times occur when using time acceleration.
* Cadwell variations - Fixed draw distance issues on various objects.
* Oschersleben variations - Fixed odd lights around track and colour issues with the horizon.
* Zolder - Fixed an issue where the player car would sometimes start in a closed garage.
AI:
* Fixed an issue where AI vehicles were sometimes sent to the pits due to low fuel on races where refueling is not allowed.
Pitstops:
* Pitstop strategy will now use the actual bar value for tyre pressures.
* Fixed an issue where the Pit engineer would repeatedly inform the player that a pit crew member has lost a wheel nut during pit stops.
* Fixed an issue where the Pit Engineer would call the player to stop for fuel when fuel consumption was disabled in options.
Replays:
* Improved the smoothness of the sun, moon, stars, and shadow motion when rewinding replays of a race that had a high time acceleration.
Driver Network Profile:
* Fixed an issue where at times the miles driven on a particular track or with a particular car would be logged under the wrong car or track. This improves the accuracy of the player’s Affinity ratings.
Can someone start a thread with pad settings after the patch? My controller before patch feels a bit slow, unresponsive as it were at times.
Post settings so they can be put in OP as a list?
Forums are saying default #3 is good, downloading now to test it!
Hooray ?
Holy moly, it is night and day. It feels so much better, still tricky to recover a tank slapper but possible (like real life!)
You can really feel cold tyres and the improvement in grip from warming them up.
For reference I've used moved 3, then adjusted:
Steering, throttle and brake dead zones to 10
Speed sensitivity to 0
Force feedback to 80 ( still harsh on full lockup though)
All others as is
See you out racing, though not tonight! Work...
Thanks, dtt! I trust your feedback! Now get on the hot lapping already!
Justdid a full race weekend in the ginettas, much fun was had! Looks like Oulton Park still has some frame rate issues though. I got a stutter at final corner and handling was trickier in race than qualifying..
Time of day affects track temperature, track temperature affects grip levels. Handling will always feel different session to session.
True, I do wonder why you have a practice session to help setup the car if you can't rely on the race(s) being in similar conditions.
My statement was based on one track with known frame rate issues, ample time today to see what its like at others :)
This is one of those rhetorical questions/comments correct?
I tried the Xbox One version of Project CARS this morning with my TX wheel, post patch (I think), and it feels the same. I am still getting little or no FFB around center during turns, which is a dealbreaker for me. I have installed the game on my desktop PC, which is hooked up to the same HDTV as my Xbox One. I am using the TX wheel and the FFB feels amazing. I guess us wheel users have to wait for the next patch for help???
God Damn!!!!....This Game looks just like another Game of Bitch Patch....Bitch about a problem hard enough and you get a patch...I can understand now why this game took so long for release. Must be Really Nice being a Developer these days....Release your game (1/2?...1/4 Ass Done) and let the user point out the mistakes or tweaks needed...Sticking with GT6 until "You All" make this game right!!!
P.(arcell)S....Please Hurry Guys!!!
The game is sheer bliss on PC, it might be my favorite racing game of all time, next to iRacing. The problem is that SMS did a half ass job on the Xbox One port.
Okay, will try third setting when I get home. here's hoping!
Yeah. I've heard that external HD's seem to improve this. Haven't bought one yet though.